I have a 90' toyota and i replaced the clutch and the whole 9 yrds when I start it up it grinds when i try to put it in reverse and in 1st gear. when i get goin down the road it a pain in the ass to shift up and down throught the gears especially from 2nd to third and and back down I figured out my slave clinder might be shot the rubber cushion is full of brake fluid so hopefully my new one will fix my problem if you know what may be the problem please reply back <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I think you answered your own question. If the slave does not fix it look under the dash at the bracket that holds the pedals, sometimes they crack and do not allow full throw on the pedal. Also make sure the bushing that the shifter rides in is not all broken up.

If you have brake fluid in the boot of the slave cylinder push rod that is definitely the problem. Get a new slave, they are like $25. The other possibilities to cause your symptoms are; there is air in the hydraulic system, the clutch master cylinder is shot, or your clutch petal height is not setup correctly.
I changed my clutch slave and master cylinder about a month ago when it let go 1.5hrs from home. It was a long, late night power shifting drive home!! Thank the big guy upstairs for that clutch cancel switch; it can save your ass in a pinch!

Also if you are changing the slave cylinder, fabricate yourself a pressure bleeder. Believe me it works better than my lovely wife pumping the pedal complaining about the cold and laughing at my commands of ôINö ok now ôOUTö. Making a bleeder is really easy and except the epoxy glue and the u bolt that I bought all the material was laying around home.

Materials I used:
1/8ö steel plate, 4öX 4ö
1 old bike tire inner tube
Epoxy glue suitable for rubber to steel
Hardware store U bolt large enough to fit under master cylinder bore
1 litre Nalgene HDPE bottle
Clear plastic tubing large enough in diameter to fit over inner tube valve
Coupling from a bike pump that attaches to tire valves.

Tools Required:
Drill, and bits,
10mm Flare nut wrench

Fabrication:
I made the cap by taking a sheet of 1/8ö thick steel big enough to cover the reservoir with about an inch of overlap. Drill a hole in the middle of the plate large enough so that a Schrader inner tube valve will fit through it. Cut the inner tube and valve so that the rubber of the inner tube will cover the bottom of the plate (to make a seal from reservoir to bottom of cap). Glue the inner tube valve to the underside of the plate so that the valve pokes through the top side of the plate. Remove the core from the valve as you will be pumping pressurized brake fluid into it. I then drilled two other holes on each side of the inner tube so that I could clamp the plate down to the clutch master cylinder reservoir with my small U bolt.

Now you have the cap, you need a bottle to contain the brake fluid and air pressure. Some people use those garden sprayers but they are approx. $30.

I figured that I wanted to use the tire pressure right under my truck (lower the pressure to 15psi) and so I grabbed a grubby old Nalgene bottle and drilled two holes in the lid one as an inlet and the other as an outlet. The tire inflater coupling and hose that came in the fluid transfer pump kit I have worked perfectly so I glued it to the lid. Then I took approximately 3.5Æ of the clear plastic hose and inserted it in the outlet hole of the bottle lid so that it reaches the bottom of the bottle and glued it in place as well.

Procedure:
After the glue dried and I was ready to bleed the system I removed the clutch master cylinder rubber cap and clamped my steel cap to the master cylinder by tightening down the u bolt. I went to the bleeder screw of the slave cylinder and placed another clear plastic tube on the end of the bleeder screw and immersed the other end of the hose into a jar containing some brake fluid (just as you would bleed brakes/clutch the old fashioned way). I then filled up the Nalgene bottle with brake fluid, put the bottle lid on tight, connected the outlet hose to the tire valve on the master cylinder cap, and the inlet hose to the tire of my truck (remember to lower tire pressure to about 15psi). Check for leaks! Then just crack open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder and watch the brake fluid pour out of that bleeder screw, through the hose into your jar. Before you run out of fluid in the Nalgene and you think that the air has vacated the lines, just close off the bleed screw and disconnect the pressure bleeder starting with the tire pressure. Replace cap and check the clutch system.

Conclusion:
I couldnÆt believe that this worked so well! I even built a bigger cap to fit my brake master cylinder and flushed my brake fluid! This is a nice little system and can even work on the trail. Plus staying on the cheap was most important!

Peace

Justin

hey, lookoutbelow, sounds like you don't like the manual bleeding - neither do I. Do you have any pics of your "pressure bleeder"? I work better with pics than writing <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />
AUSSiE

Sure, I just need to take the pics. I will post them sometime next week. Mabye we can put this in the tech articles?

Yes, pics would be awesome!