OK but, say the OEM fan is 400 CFM and you got 700 CFM from the new electric fan, wouldn't BOTH fans being on at once result in more CFM, like 400 + 700 = 1100 CFM through the condenser?

No. It would be one fan pushing 400 cfm, fighting against the other fan pulling 700 cfm. In all probability it would make things worse.

Think of the situation as a hollow tube. You blow 400 cfm in one end and try to suck 700 out the other, see the error of the logic????

Yes-Yes-Yes

The OEM electric fan covers half the condenser and moves a lot less than 2750 cfm. My A/C works better at idle and slow driving than it did with the OEM mechinical and electric fans. I live in Oklahoma it gets hot here, if I thought for a minute the OEM electric fan was benifical I would have left it installed.

Gary dont forget one think .. the area between the two radiators is not "air tight"....

Very good point. In the case of leaving the oem E-Fan in place would show it to act as an air inducer (only while it is in motion..of course ). Original plan of the Kia motor sport engineers <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> However, I agree that the 16" aftermarket fan would certainly be a GREAT benefit and a plus with many self explained benefits. Based on the info presented here I also realize that leaving in the oem a/c fan intact---- will not cause a power loss at all. The downside would just prolly be redundancy and a tad bit more cooling capacity. It certainly would not be causing more harm at all, as someone stated earlier <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Guys stop over-thinking this thing. The Kia engineers put the fan on the condenser coils so there would be some air flow when the engine was at low RPM and the clutch on the mechanical fan was dissengaged. If you want to see if there is any air flow with the Procomp fan, turn the fan on hi and put your hand in front of the A/C condenser or use a smoke source.

If you find comfort in having the OEM fan installed just leave the damn thing in, it will only restrict air flow a little when it is turned off.

I removed it because I don't like having things on the vehicle that serve no purpose and can break and cause problems.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Well stated!

Come on there is no need to get mean.

So anyways, to make the AC work the best possible, shouldn't I make sure the condenser has a semi-airtight seal against the radiator?

There is usually foam between the two to kind of seal them but I think the foam on mine is chewed up and some might be even missing, should I maybe find some new foam weatherstripping type stuff to replace it for better condenser airflow?

I probably will remove the OEM fan...

Not being mean nor am I upset. I am just blunt. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />

I do not have a seal in mine between the two.

I installed mine when it was still hot here and I assure you the A/C works better at idle and low speed than it ever did before.

Be cautioned though that if the A/C input is active 12 vdc applied the fan will run at full speed even with the ignition sens off. This can give you a controll to cool the engine bay after engine shut-down, could be a timer or manual switch.

The water fording cut-off can be a switch in the ignition sense line but I would suggest that if you connect the A/C sens line that you use a double-pole switch and switch both the A/C sens and the Ignition sense lines for fording.

Actually I have a relay already wired up from my ignition switch so the fan power circuit is open when the ignition is off, so that shouldn't be a problem.

How did you determine that the AC works better now? And this is sitting still, at idle, right?