It just felt cooler.

I feel the need to apologize to Airdale73013 if it looked like I was " puuling him by the face" as we say in Greece..
What you seem to accomplice is VERY interesting, I dont doubt it.
You have to understand though that it was a very "strange" mod... that I personaly would like to know the sceptic behind it, what your thoughts/actions/trial and errors before I atemt it...
Anybody who doubts can take a thermometer put it on the air aoutlet inside the cabin and test it....
But as I said it was a VERY "aggresive" mode and I admire you for that..

Thinking we have overlooked the obvious....the electric "pre-fan" for the a/c is designed to produce extra flow when the vehicle is at idle and not moving. Otherwise, the normal fan would produce all the flow. So when we add a electric fan that "knows" to spin faster when the engine is not, we get the max airflow. (Why Kia didn't just put one electric in in the first place? Well, my engineer friend couldnt answer that.......seems it would have been more cost effective.) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

That is probably why most newer cars do have an electric fan instead of one driven off the engine.

Well actually there are more reasons than that, but you know what I mean. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />

Well, that and they have east/west motors (sideways). Kinda hard to mount the rad in the wheel well! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />

No need to apologize my feelings were not hurt. I am from Oklahoma so I have thick skin.

There is no doubt that the OEM mechanical fan can move much more air than the Procomp electric. That is true when the engine is at intermediate RPMs and at the cost of probably 25 hp and when the fan clutch is fully engaged.

The OEM A/C electric fan is intended to provide minimal air flow for the A/C condenser when the engine is at idle or the vehicle is moving at low speed. The new electric fan provides more than ample air flow ( 2750 cu-ft/sec ) at any speed.

After I did my installation I descovered that the engine had a hard time staying a operating tempature because the new fan was running at 50% when the engine reached 160 F. I descovered I had a theromastat that was failing but the stock cooling system did not provide enough air-flow at low speed to discover this problem.

The new electric fan set up almost always runs at the 50% level because it provides enough air flow to cool the engine at idle and slow speed even in hot weather, the two exceptions are:

1. When the A/C is switched on the fan runs at 100%

2. If the engine tempature reaches 200 F the fan will switch to 100% this usually happens only when the engine is shut off and I have the ACCY switch on.

If you want a verifiable test, insert a therometer in the A/C duct and let it idle for 15 mins with the stock setup and then do the same test with the new electric fan only. Just make sure the Outside Temp. is coose to the same in both test and that the new fan is running at full speed.

Yeah it's funny because at medium to high RPM's the OEM clutch fan is able to move a hellof a lot more air and energy-wise is more efficient on a CFM produced per HP consumed basis... BUT... The problem people don't seem to realize is that you don't even need the fan when you are moving, the air from the car moving usually is more CFM than you need (unless going slow). When you really need the fan's help is when moving slow or sitting still at idle... and guess what! Those times happen to be the times when your engine RPM is low so your OEM clutch fan isn't moving very much air! So basically the OEM fan much of the time behaves the opposite of what would be best for cooling the engine. The OEM clutch fan produces absolute shitloads of CFM... right when you DON'T need it!

To justify the case in point....We all know that the electric fan is well versed beyond the typified makings of the clutch fan! however, The A/C issue has yet to be resolved in the area of necessity and specifics <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> It basically comes down to a matter of taste, preference and desire. The both setups seem to work quite effectively with a a very small margin of variance. I will do the electric fan change when I actually get the nerve up to do it. Thanks Airdale for all the insightful areas of info regarding this complex procedure/modification. As I said before.....good job! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Solution....have the clutch fan mounted on the top of the car and use it for a variable pitch prop to produce thrust a higher speeds! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

(Perhaps we have beat this particular horse to death!)

HEY GUYS!

I was so interested in the SPAL fan controller I saw in this thread, when my cheap crappy electrical fan went bad, I decided this time, instead of using the crappy thermostat that I had to stick in the top radiator hose, this time I would use the SPAL fan controller!

Well, it took me a long time to do the job because I made all the connections waterproof and used wire loom on all the wire runs, but it's done and I'm glad I did it! The SPAL fan controller is really cool.

I already had a power wire coming from my ignition into the under-hood area (actually soldered it onto the ignition switch myself and ran the wire through the firewall) and I used that wire for the SPAL ignition signal, it already has that, so I was able to get rid of my relay. Then I used the OEM OBDII temperature sensor to tell the SPAL controller what temperature the engine has, and hooked the AC signal wire to the AC compressor clutch, so when the AC kicks in, the fan goes into High mode. I might re-do that connection though, I got to thinking, sometimes the clutch can cycle on and off, I don't need the fan cycling too, so I will probably switch that over to the OEM AC fan power line instead like Airdale did (I think).

This is the fan I used:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...=&item=270067795041&rd=1,1

It's a 16" Procomp fan. It is so nice! Very quiet, fast, moves a LOT more air than my old 16" Empire fan bought from Autozone. It makes my old fan look like a joke. My old fan was way louder and moved way less air. This fan is SLICK. I don't remember what my old fan was rated but this new one is supposed to be rated 2700 CFM.

I love how with the SPAL controller, the fan is on LOW speed all the time. Low speed is enough to keep the engine cool no problem. BUT once you turn on the AC, the fan kicks into high and really moves a lot of air, so your AC will blow nice and cold!

While I was in there I re-wired the signal wires that go to the OEM temp sensor and sending unit for the temp gauge, because the wires had gotten all cooked from heat or something over the years, and they were in pretty bad shape. These Kias don't have great wiring it seems to die an early death so I like to keep my eyes out for potential electrical problems and replace stuff when it gets brittle and falling apart.

Anyway, just wanted to let you know, this SPAL fan controller is really cool, it takes all the annoying variables out of the job... All you need is to plug into your existing power, ignition, AC and temp signals, you don't have to go buy a thermostat and relay and connectors and other junk, it even comes with the wire you need and connectors and stuff. It's a good kit.

If I ever put an electric fan onto another vehicle that had a clutch fan (which I'm sure I will do to my pickup truck) I will definitely use the SPAL controller again.

P.S. - I knew my old fan was wearing out because it started to blow fuses every once in a while, then pretty soon it would blow the fuse immediately. Well, I never realized how bad things were, it was kinda scary when I pulled off the old fan, I could barely turn the fan blades with my hands, and the wire harness was all melted like crazy. That fan must have been pulling a lot of amps before it died because it would work for a couple hours then blow the 30 amp fuse, and I would put in a new 30 amp fuse to keep the fan going while in traffic so I didn't overheat getting home! LOL... Anyways the fan lasted 5 years I guess, but it seems like it should have lasted longer, but you know what they say, you buy cheap you buy twice!