It's Island Park actually, Big Springs if you know the area. Down the street from Sportsmans Bar. Shout out to Faye at Sportsmans. Thanks buddy <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> but I'm in Huntington Beach, Ca. It's ccccold in Idaho this time of year. Thanks for the offer next time I'm in town I've got a beer with your name one it just for offering!

Forgot to thank you too allochris. Once I get the hub cover off I'll use your directions. For now I'm driving with a cut CV boot and 2 allen bolts holding the hub cover on <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />. The other side can wait for now...thou I've aready started soaking the allen bolts on that hub cover. LOL
Oh well if anyone has any ideas let me know. Thanks again everyone. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Hand-held impact tool, the kind you smack with a BFH (Sears has them and they work great) and a very large phillips head bit will get them out. Then replace them with hex head bolts. Something like this one from H. F.



From their web page: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46978

Loosen the toughest screws with one quick hammer blow
Set includes:
8mm x 2-15/16'' slotted
8mm x 1-7/16'' slotted
7mm x 1-7/16'' slotted
#3 x 2-15/16'' slotted
#3 x 1-7/16'' Phillips
#2 x 1-7/16'' Phillips
1/2'' drive to 5/16'' hex adapter
1/2'' drive impact driver
Storage case



ITEM 46978-5VGA

Yeah, I wanted to ask someone about that...is that the hot tip, replace them with hex heads?
Thanks, for the info.
Anyone know how to pull the flanges from the diff? As long as I'm buying bolts I may as well push those studs out and replace them with the 17mm bolts. Make this the last time I do it the hard way <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />. I'll start a new thread for that. Thanks again <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

just FYI, depending on the bolt head/diameter ratio, a normal 17mm may be loose in the hole.
I know thsi will irk somebody - but I found that an SAE 3/4" head hex bolt fits in there perfectly, just snug. And since 3/4" is virtually identical to 19 mm, you can still use the metric wrenches.
I went this route b/c the local parts houses have stainless Grade 8 bolts in SAE laying around for peanuts $$, while the same set and matching washers/locknuts (I use a locknut on the backside as well as a lock-washer on the cap side) is a rare find and alot more pricy in metric.... aparently North Carolina is still dragging its feet on the whole metric thing....

Knock them out with a hammer.

I was able to get the bolts for the hubs at NAPA; they were the flanged type that came on the older Toyotas. I do not know 17 mm bolts you are talking about. If it is the ones that hold the CV's to the stub shafts those are not 17 mm, you do not measure by what size wrench it takes but the dia. of the threaded portion of the bolt.

Here is a great place to get Metric hardware:

http://www.nutty.com/

After looking at this write up a little longer I think I can see that these stub axles are most likely held in to the diff with a snap ring. This would make me have to open up the diff to remove them. Am I right? I don't think it's possible to pound out the pressed in studs with a hammer. Without first removing the the stub axles from the diff. I wouldn't want to try it anyway.

EDIT
Well I'm dumb but I'm not stupid. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> I looked at the FSM and it shows the stub axles are held in with a snap ring. I'm going to try it first with the spare front diff I have on the bench. Go get the studs pressed out or maybe a BFH <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> if I'm feelin cocky. And get the hardware I'll need to bolt it all back together.
I still have to get the stripped allen bolts out of the hub cover first and for that I'll use this
Keep the great ideas comming and I'll post updates as I go. Thanks again everyone <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

EDIT
Stub axles are not...NOT...held in with a snap ring. They can be pried out without opening the diff. If all you want to do is remove the studs you don't even have to remove the stub axles. Just get a 5# sledge and go at them. Some have suggested reusing the studs as bolts by grinding off the splines. If you plan on doing this keep the nut on the end of the stud so you won't damage the threads with the hammer.

The stub axles just pop out of the diff. You do not have to take it a part. When I first got my truck and it was IFS I used two pry bars to pop them out.

You do not have to pull the axles to change the press-in bolts to regular bolts, just knock them out with a hammer.

You don't have to remove the snap rings on the ends of the stub axles(they call it a side gear axle)?
Like it shows here





Then that would mean I could undo the 6 nuts holding the IFS axle to the diff pound out the studs and replace that axle.(the boot is cut, that's why I'm doing all this sheet)I wouldn't have to move/remove the lower BJ and the disc assmbly. That would save lots of time and cussing.
Thanks I'll try that.

OK, I've got the hub cover off and the 6 nuts that hold the IFS(CV)axle to the diff off. The bolt inside the hub that screws into the IFS(CV) axle and the snap ring are undone. The axel is 'free' but still 'trapped' between the hub and the diff with very little room to move. I can't take the studs out cause there is no room to swing a hammer to pound out the studs. Any ideas? Thanks!