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...Then replace them with hex head bolts.

Yeah, I wanted to ask someone about that...is that the hot tip, replace them with hex heads?
Thanks, for the info.
Anyone know how to pull the flanges from the diff? As long as I'm buying bolts I may as well push those studs out and replace them with the 17mm bolts. Make this the last time I do it the hard way <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />. I'll start a new thread for that. Thanks again <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />


just FYI, depending on the bolt head/diameter ratio, a normal 17mm may be loose in the hole.
I know thsi will irk somebody - but I found that an SAE 3/4" head hex bolt fits in there perfectly, just snug. And since 3/4" is virtually identical to 19 mm, you can still use the metric wrenches.
I went this route b/c the local parts houses have stainless Grade 8 bolts in SAE laying around for peanuts $$, while the same set and matching washers/locknuts (I use a locknut on the backside as well as a lock-washer on the cap side) is a rare find and alot more pricy in metric.... aparently North Carolina is still dragging its feet on the whole metric thing....

With 200+ Billion electrical parts, the world most complicated machine is inside your own skull.

Question Reality.
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'89 Rnr DLX "SR4.5", 32s w/ 5.29 locked f/r blah blah