I tried pounding on that ball joint all morning...nothing, didn't budge. So I want to get the ball joint puller but I have no idea what to get. The people at Harbor Tool & Freight have no idea. I've looked up various BJ pullers on line but I've never used one.

I've NEVER pulled the BJ to change CV axles on my 86 (should be same config as your 88). Someone mentioned Eric B earlier; that's how I changed mine until I got a chance to modify the diff flanges. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" /> The pry bar is yer buddy for that inside flange.

Ya do a lot of swearin' under there before you do that mod tho'. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />

I take it you've got the clip and all that off the outer stub already.

yeah i've always been able to get mine out without pulling the BJ's or front diff. as well

i pound out the studs and grind off the splines. you can pound them out one at a time w/ the diff still in the truck and then just put them back in w/ the splines on them too, if you'd like. It helps a ton.

if you do decide to grind those splines off make sure to use some loctite when re-installing

I did mine without having to do all the stuff most of you are talking about. (Besides the cussing). I turned my wheel to the right a bit, for the lh side, pushed, contorted, and shimmyed both sides in a similar fashion. Did not have to remove studs or anything. One thing that did happen though was the end cap came off one side and spooged me...lol

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> I GOT IT <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Old shaft out <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> new shaft in <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> studs replaced with new bolts and nylock nuts.

Next question <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> does the hub body go onto the disk assembly in a certain way? I have the automatic hubs not ADD

Thank you EVERYONE <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

nice work, what finally did it? F-bomb grease?

I think the problem was the previous owner has the torsion bars cranked up sooooooo far that the a-arms angle to the CV shaft didn't allow room for removal. I put the jack under the lower a-arm and jacked it up to bring the arms as parallel to the ground as possible and applied many strategic F-bombs <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" /> and it finally came out. I pounded out the studs in the stub shaft and replaced them with bolts and nylock nuts.

Thanks again every one <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Hi
I just came in from the shop having changed the CV boots on both side on my 1991 Toyota truck. I tried to remove a couple of studs to help with the axel removal but it only made it closer to coming out. I had to remove the bottom ball joint and the lower shock bolt in order to get the shaft out. I also placed a floor jack up against the bolt on the lower ball joint and put a bit of pressure on it, then, when I struck the casting it jumped apart. I also used a straight piece of steel stood on the on the floor jack to lift on the upper a-arm and this helped me remove and replace the axel with out dragging the grease cover parts in the dirt. It was nessary for me to remove the ball joint because when I tried to depress the shaft in order for it to clear the Differential flange the end cap which keeps the grease inside the inner CV joint came loose and grease got on everything. I have done a few of these repairs and removing the lower ball joint and sometimes the lower shock mount makes the job a whole lot less trying. I hope this helps JIM