OK- so here's my version of the instructions. Understand that this applied to my 2003 truck, so if there's any differences between years, oh well. I copied the numbered steps from the All Pro website and added my comments, if any, in parenthesis. I hope this helps the well intended...
1. Remove cotter key and ball joint nut. Separate ball joint from upper a-arm.
2. Remove brake line bracket to avoid hyper extending the brake line when the ball joint disconnects. On 98+ models the abs/wheel speed wire harness also needs to be removed to avoid breakage when the ball joint disconnects.
(The bracket holding the ABS wire can't be re-used because there are no threads on the new A-arm to mount it. I just bent the metal bracket to release the wire and then zip tied the wire to the new A-arm and discarded the bracket.)
3. Disconnect ball joint from upper a-arm.
4. Remove retaining clip from ball joint
5. Using a universal puller, remove the ball joint from the spindle. It is possible to remove the ball joints using a mallet, but we do not recommend this as you may damage the spindle in the process.
(I did not have this type of puller, but I happened to have one of those cheap presses that use a bottle jack. I decided to remove the spindle to make this process easier. That meant removing the brake calipers, the axle nut [36mm socket] and the [4] lower ball joint bolts. With a little creativeness, bearing separaters, sockets and appropriate sized pipe sections, this step was relatively easy.)
6. Insert ball joint adapter with shoulder on the bottom side into the spindle. Install the snap ring.
(Again, I used my press for this and it's pretty self-explanatory when you get to this part. I used a little grease on these parts to prevent corrosion.)
7. Remove the stock shock.
8. To access the upper a-arm you will need to remove the factory air box. This is easily done by removing 3 bolts. On 98+ models, you also must remove the relays attached to the inner fender panel.
9. Remove the stock a-arm pivot bolt once the air box is out of the way and remove the stock upper a-arm.
(I did not have to remove the entire air box, but I did have to remove the SRS sensors on each side [identified by the yellow tape on the wiring harness] by removing its bolts. On the right side, an AC line had to be held out of the way to remove the A-arm bolt.)
10. Install the Bilstein coil-over shock with the provided grade 8 bolts. Note: the shock perch must be mounted on the shock before the shock is put into place. If not, you will not be able to fit the perch bolt through the shock. Install nuts provided and torque to specification, 45 ft. lbs.
11. Install the All-Pro chromoly upper a-arm using the stock pivot bolt. This is easier with two people. One person holds the a-arm and a-arm washers in place while the other pushes the pivot bolt through the assembly via the engine compartment.
12. Attach the chromoly a-arm to the spindle. Install ¥öx5ö bolt and torque to specification, 90 ft. lbs.
13. Using the spanner wrench provided, adjust coil-over shocks to ¥ö above the lowest thread, or to desired ride height.
(Do this step before the coil-over is installed. It will really help if you put a little oil on the spanner threads and the upper spring seat where it rotates around the shock body. There is a split section on the upper spring seat where you can apply the oil. This alone will save a lot of elbow grease when it comes time to make the final height adjustments. When you install the coil-overs, the spanners go toward the bottom. Remember, once it's all installed, you have to unload the suspension to adjust the spanners, in other words, jack up the truck by its frame rails or crossmember. Also, the spanner wrenches are different lengths, but fit both the locking and adjusting spanners)
14. Replace air box.
15. Add 3/8ö diff spacer between third member mounts and frame.
