Leave the cams on. Becareful when removing the head bolts not to strip them. Hard part here is getting the cam sprockets off. Those bolts are tight! Hope you have a breaker bar, if not get one. Don't use 12point sockets either, get six point if you don't already. I was a rookie when I did mine and did not want to get the special wrench that locks onto the cam sprocket which is the right way. I just put a deep socket on one of the bolts that holds on the timing cover behind the sprocket and used it as a sort of wedge. I have heard of guys snapping the bolt head off and putting themselves in even deeper so the choice is yours. It worked for me but obviously is not the proper way, i guess it depends on what you have on hand or access to. Once the sprockets come off take the head bolts off in the proper sequence. Look at the fsm at the top of the thread if you have not already. You are getting close, good work, and the post that 1fastss placed all is necessary to say the least. Are you already savvy to what needs to be replaced along the way as far as tensioner pulley etc...? And using the right brand of gaskets etc...? lemme know, I luckily found this sight after my motor was at the machine shop and rauchoffroad's thread was going strong so I eves dropped and learned alot. The machinist I had do the work went against my suggestion and used felpro head gaskets because thats what came with his rebuild kit and guess where I was 2000 miles later? In front of his shop ripping down my fresh new motor, doing what your doing because of his WRONG decision. BTW, look up rauchoffroads thread on the 3.0 rebuild, I'm sure most of your questions and a wealth of info is there waiting for you.