i just bought a 1982 toyota 4x4 truck. it has a 6 or 7 inch suspension lift, 3" body lift (which i have already taken out and replaced with factory height bushings from northwest offroad), 35" tires. the suspension lift is all springs. no blocks. it has ranchero shocks and 2 ranchero steering dampeners. has the factory 22r carburetor engine with a header and stock exhaust the rest of the way back. nothing leaks, and everything looks like it has been done correctly. (so far. i have only had it a week and have driven it less then 100 miles)

i bought the truck in an impound auction, so asking these to the owner was kind out out of the question.

* is there an easy way to tell if it has a locking differential in either the front or the rear?

* is there any way to tell if the gears in the differentials have been changed?

* i am considering switching over to fuel injection via:
http://www.affordable-fuel-injection.com/tbi-system.htm
does anyone have any experience with this setup / company?

that is all for now. my todo list is growing by the minute so i am sure there will be more!

thank you,
michael

Locker: Jack up the axle and spin one wheel, watch the direction of rotation of the other wheel. If opposite directions, its an open diff (or an unlocked air or electric locker), if the same it is a locker or limited slip of some sort.

Gearing: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechInfo.shtml#RatioDetermination

EFI, a 22RE swap is one good option.

Affordable fuel injection doesn't look that affordable.. For that kind of money, consider SDS.

I've done EFI via megasquirt - both in a TBI format (supercharged), by adding it to OEM efi hardware (22re), and custom turbo..

If you've got an early head and don't want to mess with a head swap (which isn't that hard) - you can get a TBI to work from a GM and manage it via megasquirt... Assuming you understand something about tuning.. It's actually pretty easy, as the ignition side stays completely OEM - you just tune for fuel:

sorry, that was the wrong link for affordable fuel injection. this is the one i would be getting as i do not need an electronic ignition distributor as i already have one...
http://www.affordable-fuel-injection.com/tbi-tbi.htm
this one just manages the fuel.
$950 and i would not have to find a RE intake manifold, or piece anything together. i am just interested in getting rid of the carburetor the easiest and quickest way possible. thank you for the other options though. i have saved the links for another project i am working on! (car)

4crawler, thank you for the information! that is exactly what i was looking for. i will check first thing tomorrow.

-michael

DCG's project is a little on the high end too, from the sounds of you. Read this:

Carb to EFI

With it being a pre 84 truck, some other considerations will be a newer exhaust manifold (pair shaped exhaust) Not sure if that header would match up or not; you'd have to look. If you can keep it, DO it...

AND ignitor/dist/coil/alternator WHY?

You currently have the setup with the external voltage regulator; not too sure if that will cross over without driving your EFI nuts or not. A 85-95 (non-3.0) donor is ideal; there's a guy parting out a 90 Runner right now in our FS section; always stuff on fleabay.

www.car-part.com

We also have a variety of FSM's sticky'd at the top here for your reference once you get your parts pile lined up.

hi kewlynx,

thank you for your reply.

what do you mean by:
"AND ignitor/dist/coil/alternator WHY?"

would i just have to get an 1985-1995 2.4L alternator to gain the internal voltage regulator? this would bolt in with no other modifications? (other then wiring harness)

and sorry for this question, but what is an "FSM"?

-michael

FSM = Factory Service Manual

For a fuel only megasquirt, you're looking at sub $300.
Other parts required:
High pressure fuel pump (inline)
Some form of GM TBI ($50)
Adapting the TBI to the stock manifold... Think Toyota -> Holley -> TBI (cost ??)
02 sensor ($50)

You're still on the hook for tuning and wiring, but I think that's the case for "painless" fuel injection also.

Another option is a slimmed down 22RE harness - at least 2 vendors over on pirate sell them, but the cost is in the $400-$500 range and you'll still have to find the EFI hardware (pretty cheap) and a good 22RE head... www.celica-gts.com - guys over there have early 22r heads setup for EFI...

In short, they do not interchange. My 86 carbie coil/ignitor are not the same as for my 87 EFI setup.

On the alternator, the regulator is integrated into it. You will want to grab the alternator mount as well, as the 'ears' are on the outside of the bracket, not the inside.

Yeah, it'll all bolt up.

I've thought about doing this with my 83; a little more work than if a 2nd generation truck, but not impossible. I've got to scan my 83 FSM schematic for someone; PM me if you move ahead with this for a copy. You can use the diagrams sticky'd here for the EFI part of it.

on the seeing if there is a locking differential in the rear... i jacked it up and spun one wheel... the other one did not turn at all. i went around to the other side and spun that one... the other one did not turn at all...

so what does this mean?

thanks!
michael