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Re: Need Engine Help [Re: BigJim] #781194 03/08/07 05:11 AM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 8
M
mike082679 Offline
Need a Spot
Thanks BigJim. The Oil level is fine. I have been monitoring this problem for a couple months now (although it's gotten much worse suddenly!) and have been changing the oil every couple hundred miles or so to get rid of the emulsification. I thought it was just condensation from the cold weather we were having, until last week I noticed the coolant level had dropped considerably and the blowby got much worse. I'm also spitting a lot of carbon from the tailpipe. The #2 cylinder looks good, no visible scoring and feels smooth to the touch. All the piston tops have carbon buildup, but none worse than another. I see no cracks in the cylinder head, even after cleaning. I am not sure how to examine the crankshaft. The only thing I see different is that, looking through the exhaust port at the exhaust valve for #2 inside the head, it appears to have much more carbon buildup than the others at the place where it comes out of the valve guide, and that carbon looks to be wet. Not sure what that means, but it's the only thing I see thats unique to #2. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Re: Need Engine Help [Re: mike082679] #781195 03/08/07 06:01 AM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 34
C
cstimmons Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Quote
Hello all, don't mean to chime in, but my YJ (89, Ford TFI ignition, MC2100 carb, Nutterd'), is showing the same symptoms as cstimmons and I am very anxious to see the resolution to this problem. I had a rough idle, SEVERE blowby from the valve cover, poor fuel mileage, decreasing coolant levels, oil coated air filter, and a nice frothy milkshake for oil. I already went through the entire PCV system and replaced everything, cleaned oil baffles, etc. After doing a compression test, I found that all cylinders were around 135psi normal and 150psi with addition of some oil...with the exception of the #2 cylinder, 45psi normal and 60psi with oil. I took this as a sign that either I have valve problems or a blown HG. Does this sound like a logical conclusion? I have already pulled the head and the gasket looks good. As a forethought I ordered a reman head from Autozone, still not due to arrive until the 13th. I need my Jeep back!


from my experience concentrate on that bad cylinder. Replace the Gasket as you allready pulled the head off. Check everything and follow the manual as you put it back together. I havn't started mine as my exaust is being worked but it should...SHOULD be up and running tomorrow afternoon after the flush and fill.


93 Wrangler
4.0L (remanufactured from S&S about 5 years ago)
Mostly stock
Re: Need Engine Help [Re: mike082679] #781196 03/08/07 06:05 AM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 34
C
cstimmons Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Quote
Thanks BigJim. The Oil level is fine. I have been monitoring this problem for a couple months now (although it's gotten much worse suddenly!) and have been changing the oil every couple hundred miles or so to get rid of the emulsification. I thought it was just condensation from the cold weather we were having, until last week I noticed the coolant level had dropped considerably and the blowby got much worse. I'm also spitting a lot of carbon from the tailpipe. The #2 cylinder looks good, no visible scoring and feels smooth to the touch. All the piston tops have carbon buildup, but none worse than another. I see no cracks in the cylinder head, even after cleaning. I am not sure how to examine the crankshaft. The only thing I see different is that, looking through the exhaust port at the exhaust valve for #2 inside the head, it appears to have much more carbon buildup than the others at the place where it comes out of the valve guide, and that carbon looks to be wet. Not sure what that means, but it's the only thing I see thats unique to #2. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />


IN addition I cant be certain that this is causing your problems ( I pretty sure it isn't) but what you described on the exaust port is probably a bad valve seal. Replace them with the HG kit you got and that should clear up. Again if its the exaust port it wouldn't describe your problem.

were you getting alot of backfiring and puttering?

Last edited by cstimmons; 03/08/07 06:08 AM.

93 Wrangler
4.0L (remanufactured from S&S about 5 years ago)
Mostly stock
Re: Need Engine Help [Re: cstimmons] #781197 03/09/07 05:03 AM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 8
M
mike082679 Offline
Need a Spot
Yes, puttering badly and lots of black buildup and spitting from the tailpipe, but no smoke. My Reman head and gasket set should be in by the 13th. It may be just a valve guide issue but with a reman at least I'll have a warranty. I just wish I was sure of the cause of the problem before I spend the money on the head. I know valve cover blowby is usually caused by bad rings, but if that was the case wouldn't my compression go way up after adding oil to the cylinder and re-testing?

Re: Need Engine Help [Re: mike082679] #781198 03/09/07 07:10 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 34
C
cstimmons Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Quote
Yes, puttering badly and lots of black buildup and spitting from the tailpipe, but no smoke. My Reman head and gasket set should be in by the 13th. It may be just a valve guide issue but with a reman at least I'll have a warranty. I just wish I was sure of the cause of the problem before I spend the money on the head. I know valve cover blowby is usually caused by bad rings, but if that was the case wouldn't my compression go way up after adding oil to the cylinder and re-testing?


If you don't mind me asking what did that Reman head cost?


93 Wrangler
4.0L (remanufactured from S&S about 5 years ago)
Mostly stock
Re: Need Engine Help [Re: cstimmons] #781199 03/09/07 10:02 PM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,768
BigJim Offline
Web Wheeler
I'm still wondering what in the heck "puttering" means? Sounds like a golf term don't it.
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />


professional bovine relocation specialist
Re: Need Engine Help [Re: mike082679] #781200 03/10/07 01:22 AM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 34
C
cstimmons Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Quote
Yes, puttering badly and lots of black buildup and spitting from the tailpipe, but no smoke. My Reman head and gasket set should be in by the 13th. It may be just a valve guide issue but with a reman at least I'll have a warranty. I just wish I was sure of the cause of the problem before I spend the money on the head. I know valve cover blowby is usually caused by bad rings, but if that was the case wouldn't my compression go way up after adding oil to the cylinder and re-testing?


After re-reading this I felt like chiming in again. Again I'm not expert but from all that I've read.....the part of the compression test where you add the oil would only indicate the rings on the pistons themselves are bad.

This is an awsome rescource that I found in all my ailments.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/ic100474.htm

EDIT:

Jim,
Puttering is what a jeep does when it's only firing 5 of 6 cylinders. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

PS, I had mine towed today. I go back to work on Sunday and it's questionable whether or not I'll have a vehicle to take me there. The shop I sent it to is pricy but they got it started and after all my work I'm having the same problems. SO much so that their mechanic is stumped.

Last edited by cstimmons; 03/10/07 01:29 AM.

93 Wrangler
4.0L (remanufactured from S&S about 5 years ago)
Mostly stock
Re: Need Engine Help [Re: cstimmons] #781201 03/30/07 05:14 AM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 8
M
mike082679 Offline
Need a Spot
Well friends, it's been a while but I'm back, and with no good news... It took Autozone over a month to get my head ($270). Put everything back together that evening, fired her up the next morning, and what do ya know, didn't fix a darn thing! Still extreme blowby, and very low compression in #2 cylinder. So...I thought, maybe a worn camshaft lobe. Pulled the valve cover and spark plugs, cranked her over, valves appear to be opening and closing perfectly. Loosened the rocker arms for #2 cylinder and ran compression check with valves closed, still no compression. Guage needle jumps to 30 psi. on the first compression stroke and never moves again. I did the dollar bill test on the exhaust, it was definitely sucking it in, although I'm not really sure what that means...I have a re-ring set ready to go for this weekend, I just hate to do all that work if that's not the problem...any other suggestions? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Re: Need Engine Help [Re: mike082679] #781202 03/30/07 07:51 AM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,087
BobRowe Offline
Body Damage is Cool
When squirting oil in the cylinder between compression checks does not result in any increased compression, it is usually a sign that something in the upper end is amiss.

Unless there is a hole in the pistol... If that's the case, timing and mixture could be the culprit.


1977 CJ-7, fiberglass body, AMC 360 w/ headers, DUI ignition, Edelbrock intake and Holley 4150 carb, TF999, Dana 300, 4.56 gears lockers, York air comp, 4" susp lift, 2" body lift, BFG 35" M-T tires, Megashifter, AGR pump & box, REP8000 winch.
Re: Need Engine Help [Re: BobRowe] #781203 03/30/07 03:46 PM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,768
BigJim Offline
Web Wheeler
JESUS! Mike you did WHAT with the valves? If you stop the valves from opening and closing... How in the world can you get anything in there to compress?
Compression checks are done with ALL the sparks out and the carb propped wide OPEN! Then you do them ALL progressivly at the same time..
Doing it thisaway gives you a comparative compression of ALL the cylinders to the temp of the engine at that time..
Do it my way and get back here with ALL the readings.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />


professional bovine relocation specialist
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