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Rebuilding a 22RE #782524 01/23/07 06:42 AM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 33
B
Bevoman Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
My good friend Bill Morgan, the Chiliman, found me a 1988 4x4 (now named "Bevo") on the cheap. The 22RE seems to have thrown a rod at around 136K. I'm about convinced to try the rebuild myself but I've never done one before. The goal: to get it ready for hunting season next Fall. I'll be borrowing Chiliman's engine hoist, stand, and factory rebuild manual.

Any other tips on getting started, hazards to avoid, etc?


Hook 'Em
Re: Rebuilding a 22RE [Re: Bevoman] #782525 01/23/07 07:06 AM
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 669
D
dcg9381 Offline
Rock Warrior
Find a good machinist.
Buy parts from www.engnbldr.com.


22REturbo.net




1988 4Runner
22RTE core, turbocharged, megasquirted...
Re: Rebuilding a 22RE [Re: Bevoman] #782526 01/23/07 07:36 AM
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 15,887
kewlynx Offline
Toyota & Classifieds Moderator
*****
If that block is trashed, ask if it can be overbored. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> If not, then to the recycler it goes. Plan for that possibility.

Keep the beer on ice until the end of the day, and keep everything CLEAN and in order. Keeps you from tearing your hair out.

Digi documentation is your friend.

Crockpot, pizza, and premade sandwiches in a ziploc to keep your bread clean is also helpful.

PB Blaster or Aerokroil for disassembly; spray around some of the tough stuff first; the fuel filter brackets/lines, exhaust manifold and downpipe bolts, you get the idea.

Antiseize compound and torque wrench for reassembly. A couple sheets of emory cloth and wire brush are also handy for cleaning things up.

Blue towels and Simple Green wipes, two each.

So is a local machinist; shop around. Make sure you ask about warranty.

Get your fuel and CS injectors rebuilt, and get rid of the butt connectors in the fuel harness and solder 'em properly.
www.rceng.com or www.witchhunter.com

Consider 02 sensors; www.sparkplugs.com for Densos.

REMOVE THE CRANKSHAFT BOLT BEFORE YOU PULL THE ENGINE. You'll hate yourself if you don't. That way you can use the tranny to keep the engine from turning while you remove it.

Leave the radiator out of the truck until you drop the engine back in and retorque the bolt.

The harnesses come off with a small screwdriver to gently pop the clips loose. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />

In addition to the digi pix, a sharpie and the cardboard from the beverage box of choice is helpful; punch in the bolts. I also use cut off oil bottles for oddball stuff, and mark what they are. This is EXTREMELY helpful if you are working on this in your spare time for reassembly.
The timing chain cover is a good example of this, as you've got 3 different length bolts. MAKE SURE you inspect the cover for timing chain holes. EB has them the cheapest by far.

Machinists don't work on nor can control what you bolt back onto the long block. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" /> Clean and/or recondition your stuff. Clean the EGR plate, valve, junk out of the intake, etc. If you find any butt connectors or those ungodly crimp on blue things, GET THEM off the harness, and resolder and shrink wrap that area. ALSO, make a note of what you've repaired.

I usually keep a sheet of paper and a pencil on the wipers. One is a shopping list if anything is broken; the other is for stuff that I've fixed for my own reference. It goes into the truck's folder.

It's almost too bad it's a dead engine, cuz also what I like to do for cleaning is to flush the coolant out and run some descaler thru it to clean all the pipes, so everything is in good shape going back together, to include gunk in the heater core being flushed.

New belts/hoses/filters; if in decent shape, toss in a milk crate for trail spares, at least for your trip enyhoo.

Inspect the alternator and starters for contact and brush wear; the articles for this are in our Toyota section above. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> Local parts store can bench check 'em for ya.

I'm sure others will chime in. Review the FSM and take some notes for parts and consumeables. Having a list in front of you helps pull things together. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />


http://www.walkablecommunities.org/

Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.

**ubi apis- ibi salus**
Re: Rebuilding a 22RE [Re: kewlynx] #782527 01/24/07 12:49 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 163
4x4runner Offline
Wheeler
What connectors are you talking about soldering? The connectors on the injector's?

Re: Rebuilding a 22RE [Re: 4x4runner] #782528 02/28/07 06:50 PM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,986
Red_Chili Offline
Toyota Section Staffer
Good advice, Kewlynx. I especially appreciate the pizza and crockpot ideas, since that will be my payment for helping Bevoman! (or since his truck is Bevo, is that Butthead??)

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />


(OK, pizza as payment, along with grief-giving along the way...)

Oh, and it's not thrown a rod, only rod knock... so especially good advice about the coolant system purge! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Very, very strange for this motor to have experienced such a failure. The cam failed, then after that was repaired the rod knock. Methinks Donny boy is gonna need to look at that oil pump veeeeeery closely.

Last edited by Chili_Man; 02/28/07 06:54 PM.

-Bill
'87 4Runner w/ '96 5VZ-FE, 'Red Chili II'
'97 Taco XtraCab 3RZ-FE, 'BlackBean'
TLCA # 13257, Rising Sun 4x4 Club Land Use Coordinator
"He who stops being better stops being good." -Oliver Cromwell
Re: Rebuilding a 22RE [Re: kewlynx] #782529 02/28/07 07:02 PM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,935
bkg Offline
Roll Me Over
Quote

REMOVE THE CRANKSHAFT BOLT BEFORE YOU PULL THE ENGINE. You'll hate yourself if you don't. That way you can use the tranny to keep the engine from turning while you remove it.


Best advice ever...


Brian K. Gallus
I have nothing important to say.
Re: Rebuilding a 22RE [Re: bkg] #782530 02/28/07 08:18 PM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 52
Jason22RET Offline
Getting the Wheeling Fever
All excellent advice. Good tool work is a must. dont forget to check the head. I had my mill man install the new pistions on the rods for me too. You need a ring compressor sleve to tap the pistions in. I also use foam insted of a box so I can drawl the area like the timing cover, and push the bolts into the foam. I use a seprate box or bucket for each area of the job. Like one for underneath with all the tranny parts, one for all the acc parts, etc. Good pictures durring the job help alot. If you need a core bolock let me know, I have 2 but Im in Pa so I dont know how much it would cost to send them.
EB master build kit is great and a great price. Includes nice brass freez plugs. He is also very helpful. A new set of head studs from EB is advised, they are like $25 I think.
Oh and I found all kinds of junk in even my cleaned block from that water sensor on the rear left side of the motor! It seems to be a blind passage in the water jacket where lots of stuff settles.
That crank bolt is T-I-G-H-T. It took a static breaker bar with an impact socket, a jack stand, a pipe and a sledge to pop it. 2 man job. My impact gun was powerless on it.


Its her truck, I just fix it! 94 22RE 5 speed daily driver with a turbo motor going in.
Re: Rebuilding a 22RE [Re: Jason22RET] #782531 02/28/07 09:34 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,379
Scerb Offline
Body Damage is Cool
All good advice so far, can't think of anythign else to add. Just wanna say that I rebuilt my motor ~two years ago. I had never been inside a motor before and I rebuilt the thing by myself with the use of a haynes manual and these forums. It is not hard to do, just take your time and keep things clean.

And it is the BEST feeling ever when you start it up for the first time <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

-Scerb

Re: Rebuilding a 22RE [Re: Scerb] #782532 02/28/07 11:49 PM
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 669
D
dcg9381 Offline
Rock Warrior
One thing that is very helpful to me - and I've built several of these motors:

When you pull off parts like the oil pump and front cover, keep the bolts installed on the pump / cover. Attach them with zip-ties so they can't back out. It's basically impossible to remember where they all go, even if they're in a bag. Order/length matters on several of the parts - especially oil pump and front cover.


22REturbo.net




1988 4Runner
22RTE core, turbocharged, megasquirted...
Re: Rebuilding a 22RE [Re: dcg9381] #782533 03/01/07 12:08 AM
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,010
87Toy4x4 Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Quote
One thing that is very helpful to me - and I've built several of these motors:

When you pull off parts like the oil pump and front cover, keep the bolts installed on the pump / cover. Attach them with zip-ties so they can't back out. It's basically impossible to remember where they all go, even if they're in a bag. Order/length matters on several of the parts - especially oil pump and front cover.


thats why kewlynx suggested to use a cardboard box and punch holes in it where the bolts go. that's what i do, it works great.


87 22R PU, 2? body lift, 33? BFG muds, 4.88's, F&R Lock-Rights, Rancho Shocks, EB's Street RV Head w/ 268 Cam, LCE Header, 2" to 2 1/4" exhaust, Flowmaster 50 series, Magnaflow high flow cat, complete Herculined SR5 interior, V6 BB, MC, and calipers.
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