I wheeled the Trailmaster lift for years. Out of all the bracket style lifts I would recommend it the least. However, if you do purchase it, take time to weld the front and rear crossmember brackets together and massively reinforce the rear crossmember bracket. That lift is very fragile. Otherwise, you'll be realigning your truck every time you wheel.

Now for the question that defines lifts, are you ready to accept body damage to your rig? No, you don't *need* a solid axle swap 'cause the trails that require it will dent your rig. Yes, you might was well skip the entry level lifts and do straight to SAS. If you go the SAS route you will spend WAY over $3K when you are done with gears, etc...

The bracket style lifts have one advantage, you can easily modify all except the Procomp Stage II to have a load of travel. I had a solid 14" on mine and never bottomed out the supsension unless I really launched my truck. However, on trails in slow speed situations, I would use at most 7" or so of travel because the stock torsion bars are quite stiff. I don't believe the extra travel was worth the higher center of gravity and issues that causes. Expect driveline vibes if you exceed 4".

Now that I have a new truck I'm going to take what I have learned and go with the least possible lift. I plan to take that saved money and invest it in traction aiding devices and body protection.

One thing you will observe, lockers beat lifts always and higher lifts (solid axle type excluded) lean you closer to rocks and cliffs thus tearing up sheet metal sooner (assuming you have rock sliders which you good no matter what lift). Money in lockers and protection will yield a street friendly yet capable vehicle.

Frank