Your stock rear Toyota axle is actually the same or stronger than any Dana 44 rear. Especially since you have a V-6 diff. So, unless you want full size wide axles, or plan to drop in an entire full size drivetrain, which would bolt up easier to a Dana 44, you don't need to bother swapping the rear axle.
As for the front, a 1979-1985 solid front axle out of a Toyota PU or 4runner will bolt up easier since most SAS kits are designed for that axle and the offset is the same as your stock T-case. Also, strengthwise they are also the same or better than any Dana 44. The weak point in the Toyota is the birfield, which can be upgraded to almost Dana 60 strong, with aftermarket parts.
Some guys have used short Dana 44s or a certain version that came in, I think, the Jeep Wagoneer or something with a different pumkin offset. But this is usually because they wanted to be different, got a really good deal on the right axle, or had a hard time sourcing a Toyota axle, which can be a problem in some parts of the country. (They're far more common in the western U.S.)
The conventional and most cost effective way, done by thousand and thousands of Toyota guys is using one of the SAS kits using Toyota axles. That's the way I'd go, because your not gaining anything buy dumping the Toyota 8" for the Dana 44s, IMO.
A few other things to consider. When setting up gears, if you're going to pay someone else to set up gears and do locker installs, which is the best plan, unless you got experience and the proper equipment, the Toyota has a major advantage.
With it's drop out pumkin, you can just take the diff out to a shop and leave the axle in the truck and the truck at home. It's also easier for the shop to work on, which might keep labor charges low.
You'll also want to factor in an install kit, besides, labor, gears and locker. An install kit has bearings and stuff that you'll want. They're between $100-200 per axle.
