I was elsewhere last week <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" /> We talked about how most folks match the engine mount and tranny mount materials (rubber/rubber, poly/poly or solid/solid but not rubber/solid). I think it certainly makes sense to consider length-of-lever-arm in the equation, but few folks do. Based on the relative lengths of your lever arms, I think you'll be fine.

The hold in the tub and the bellhousing looks a little rough, but I figured you were still building and testing. When you get to polishing, it makes sense to smooth the starter hole in the bell and maybe fab a little cover to minimized the chance of grit getting in the starter or bell.

You could also build a 'powertain cage' to connect the motor side of your motor mounts to the beam section of your tranny mount -- I don't think it is really necessary, but it may give peace of mind. Remember that swappers running FJ40s have used this sort of bolts-to-the-back-of-the-transfer-case mount with outboarded rubber bushings for decades, some with TH350 autos that use a half-style bell. I recommend that you just run it...

If you are still nervous about it, run rubber donuts in place of the poly donuts you currently have (I might be interested in purchasing the poly ones at some point).

Randii


Randy Burleson
4x4Wire Managing Editor Emeritus
Mongrel Isuzu Amigo