I have a 87 ford ranger 4wd and i was wondering if you could tell me if ther is a complete engine manual that ican down load thanks dwighth@citlink.net

Happy New Year folks! I think using the 2.3 ranger flywheel in this application is the way to maintain the diesel starter, but I think the pressure plate from the 2.3 ranger will cause some problems in the montero. I'm gonna take my flywheel from the 2.3 over to the machine shop and have them drill/tap holes to mount the 2.6 mitsubishi [4g54b] pressure plate onto the ranger flywheel, and ask to have them balance it as well. I think I'll be using my 2.6 oil pan as well, but will need to take a second look to see what pmontero is referring to - also, should I be using a two pump system, one near the tank, and the other near the firewall? I salvaged the rough but functional electronic pump from the 2.3 ranger, but not the pump from the tank, [if there is one]. Has anyone got part numbers or recommendations for which pumps to get [NAPA #s]. Also, DYLANB - how did your tach turn out? I almost sold my rolling ranger chassis with the tach still there until I saw your previous thread, and got it out as the guy showed up to take her away. How would I get this into the montero?

Hello DYLANB I was wondering if you know a source where i can download acomplete engine manual on my mitsi 455Dt in my 87 ford ranger or a hard copy of the manual thanks dwighth@ citlink.net and again thanks

You can find a 83 - 85 factory service manuals on ebay. The pickup truck service manuals should cover the diesel engines.

1983 truck service manual on ebay

1984 truck service manual on ebay

I may have sourced a 'ranger 2.3 diesel rebuilding manual' with all factory torques... by ford. I'll drop a note if it turns out good. It's ford's coverage of a 4d55t rebuild. BTW - I see the oil pressure guage side mounted on the ranger oil pan. The gas 2.6 oil pan does not have this feature, but can't it be tapped out of the same spot as the 4g54b block for the 2.6? [using the same oil pressure guage, or is this discouraged because of higher compression?] Happy New Year's!

Sorry guys, just got back into town about an hour ago. The oil drain line for the turbo is an area i must have overlooked and never even considered, I'll have to take a look and see about a solution tomorrow. Haven't quite finished the tach, but I did get it wired to a point where I think it should work. I'll post a couple of pics for that in the AM as well. However I won;t be able to say for sure whether or not it works until it's running. I also reused the Mitsubishi oil pressure sensor, but you need a fitting for it to thread into the diesel block. More pics and stuff tomorrow.

pulling apart the engine the past couple days, and I have removed the intake/exhaust turbo... and am now on the front case. how do I remove the clutch fan and front case? do I need to pry it off? is there a set screw somewhere? do I need to loosen off the crankbolt on the front? also, when I was removing the turbo/oil line, i pinched it pretty bad toward the back of the block where it enters into the fitting. is there an aftermarket oil line, or can I use brake line? im off to get the machining done soon, when i get the rest of the engine apart. any word on a rebuild kit for the 4d55t?

I apologize for it taking me so long to get back on, things have been hectic lately. I have gotten a lot more done lately, and actually had the truck running for a few minutes yesterday until some problems came up I have to address. It would run for a couple of minutes and then die.... I think it might be pulling a vacuum on the fuel tank and starving itself of fuel.Next time I'll start it w/o a gas cap on and see if that solves the problem. There is also a leak around the no. 4 injector... you can hear it leaking compression after the engine is shut off. Ordering the seals from Mitsu, but can't be here until Friday.

Here's my progress as of late. Fabbed up a fan mount/shroud. Used an electric fan from an early 90's Subaru - it was the slimmest design I could find in the junkyard. Still really tight clearance. Wired it up through a Hayden fan relay and temp sensor that goes in the radiator fins.







Had to relocate batteries from under hood due to a lack of space. My first choice was behind the seat in the cab but there wasn't quite enough room for a good vented box and I don't like breathing battery fumes. So they are now in a toolbox mounted in the bed.



I was almost certain the accelerator cable from the Ranger was a perfect fit. It wound up being around 3/4" too short. In order to make it work I had to make a spacer between the plastic firewall grommet and the firewall, as well as opening up the existing hole in the firewall. This left the cable coming up about 1/2" - 3/4" short inside the cab. I pulled the pedal and put a bend in it to make up the difference. I forgot to snap the after pic, so the red circle is where I bent the pedal and the green is roughly how far it got bent - just a few degrees towards the firewall.



Hopefully I'll get the leak solved soon and be on the road.

Success! Got her up and running last Sunday. Once I got everything connected I put about eight seconds on the glow plugs and she fired right up, runs like a champ.

Here's a shot of the hood scoop I had to make to clear the AC compressor and alternator.



Passenger side, shows my air filter setup and heat shield.



Drivers side - still need to do some cleaning up on my wiring.



I plan to post a couple more details that I skipped over now that I know that it runs - mainly wiring the charging system and injection pump. If there's anything else I left out that I need to go back and detail let me know. Thanks for all the technical support and part numbers along the way.

So.... how do you put this motor in a montero w/out having a hood scoop? Put a mitsu bracket system on it? Build your own bracket system?