Got the broken fan pulley bolt extracted this morning. It only took one trip to Home Depot for titanium 1/16" drill bits. (note: Harbor Freight bolt extraction kits are cheap... you get what you pay for)

Next up: remove harmonic balancer, check timing belts, replace broken timing belt cover, remove engine mount brackets, remove power steering hose connector and Montero power steering hose and take them to a fabricator to make a new hybrid hose.

That will complete the front of the engine. After that, I'll replace the rear main seal, finish replacing the oil pan, remove and plug the oil cooler lines and then on to the fly wheel and clutch.

-Pmontero

FYI I did my PS high pressure hose on my 4.3 swap with a compression fitting. Worked great until I put in a GM power steering box, and was able to get a factory made hose.

I would get some more lines made to run an oil-cooler!!

Hi
Have any of you installed the diesel control module from your Ranger donors? It is located behind the passenger side kick panel under the glove box area. What is the fitting for on the side of the ranger oil pan for? Mine has wires going into it.

I didn't try the diesel control module. I prefer a push button system but just need to work out whether I want to step down the voltage from 12v to 8v. I think the sensor in the oil pan is for oil pressure? I haven't checked that out yet.

-Pmontero

I'm working on replacing the motor mount brackets now. I'm working on the driver's side mount. When I removed the bolts, I realized that one corner of the mount is supporting part of the bracket for the vacuum pump. Here's a pic. The top arrow is pointing to the motor mount bracket and the bottom arrow is pointing to where the pump bracket and motor mount bracket overlap.



If I remove the motor mount bracket, the bottom part of the pump bracket will be offset from the block with no support. I'm thinking of two possibilities:

1. Use a sawzall to cut off the motor mount bracket leaving enough to offset the pump bracket properly. This will leave me plenty of room for the Montero motor mount bracket.

2. Disassemble the vacuum pump mount, remove the bracket and the motor mount bracket and find something like washers or a piece of metal to offset the bracket.

Here's a pic of the whole assembly. The arrow is pointing to the vacuum pump bracket.



I think either way, option 1 is the best especially if I can cut off the mount without removing the pump bracket. There is a lot going on with the pump support and I have a lot of lime residue on this engine. (it lived in a limestone mine most of its life)

-Pmontero

I'm working through the flywheel and clutch fitment.

Here is the new 86 Ford Ranger diesel Clutch cover placed on the resurfaced stock Ford Ranger diesel flywheel:





Here is the stock 87 Mitsubishi Montero 2.6 Gas clutch cover placed on the stock 2.6 flywheel:





Notice the Ranger has raised curved teeth vs. the Montero's flat teeth. The pilot bearings are also different between the two flywheels. They both fit the input shaft but they are not interchangeable in the flywheel. Here are specs for the two clutch kits from NAPA:

86 Ford Ranger 2.3 diesel
NAPA # NNC MU478011C
# Clutch Disc Splines : 23
Clutch Cover Type : Diaphragm
Contents : Clutch Disc, Cover Assembly, Pilot Bushing, Alignment Tool, Hydraulic Line Tool
Cover Size : 8 7/8"
Disc Hub I.D./Input Shaft Size : 1"
Disc Material Type : Organic

87 Mitsubishi Montero 2.6 Gas
NAPA # NNC MU621A
# Clutch Disc Splines : 23
Clutch Cover Type : Diaphragm
Contents : Clutch Disc, Cover Assembly, Release Bearing, Pilot Bearing, Alignment Tool
Cover Size : 8 7/8"
Disc Hub I.D./Input Shaft Size : 1"
Disc Material Type : Organic

So this tells me that the clutch discs are pretty much the same. The input shaft size is the same and the cover size is the same. Based on this analysis and looking at the release bearing design, here is what I think needs to happen to make everything fit:

1. Use the flywheel from the Ranger so you can reuse the diesel starter.
2. Use the pilot bearing for the Ford Ranger diesel in the Ford Ranger diesel flywheel.
3. Use the clutch disc from the Montero 2.6 or the Ford Ranger diesel. They appear to be the same. I think I'm going to use the Ranger disc since I already own it.
4. Use the clutch cover from the Montero 2.6 and have the holes drilled into the flywheel to fit. Use the alignment pins from the Montero flywheel (bring with Ranger flywheel to machinist)
5. Use the Release bearing for the Montero 2.6 tranny. This should fit both the input shaft of the tranny and the clutch cover for the Montero 2.6

Since I bought a complete Ranger clutch kit, I'll need to buy a Montero release bearing and clutch cover. Should I buy the NAPA clutch parts or go with something better like Luk?

-Pmontero

Hi
Why wouldn't you use the gas clutch?(2.6) if you look up the dodge d50 diesel 1984, it shares a clutch with the 2.6 gas.I have 3 4d55t's in my collection. 2 are ranger one is d50. The 4x4 transmission that came with the d50 engine looks the same as the raider trans. wouldn't it be easier to use the clutch setup that was already installed on the factory d50 diesel setup? All you would have to do is redrill the ranger flywheel for the 2.6 clutch. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> My d50 diesel factory clutch looks identical to your 2.6 pic. Somewhere I read that the ranger flywheel is taller thicker than the 2.6 flywheel. I have to yet confirm this, but if it is taller it might be easier to machine this off the ranger flywheel and then you would have identical geometry to the original gas setup but using the ranger flywheel. I also salvaged the diesel control module from one donor ranger as well I have a complete (running) donor ranger to verify my hookup of the module to the raider wiring harness. This way you will have the correct voltages for the glow plugs, and the module will control the glow plug voltage and timing after it senses the engine temp from the temp sending unit. Apparently the glow plugs stay on until the engine reaches operating temp, and yes no fried glow plugs. I have a factory wiring diagram for the diesel ranger which shows a total of about 8 wires to hook up the control module. My glow plug setup didn't work on my running donor ranger, so I took of every connection on the relay's etc and cleaned them. I even took apart one relay and it looked new inside. After cleaning the connections my donor ranger has started every time with only 1 to 2 seconds of starter engagement. The previous couldn't get it to start at all. That is why he sold the complete truck to me for $250. Good luck and let me know if that helped. I should be ready to install the engine in the next couple of weeks if I don't go bear hunting.

Hi dudly,

I think we're saying the same thing. The only difference is that it appears that the clutch disc for the ranger diesel and the montero gas are also the same. If I was starting from scratch, I would buy the montero gas clutch disk, clutch cover and release bearing. I would then redrill the ranger flywheel for the montero clutch cover. (all of the holes are different from the ranger diesel clutch cover.) Only the flywheel and pilot bearing should come from the ranger diesel.

Here's a pic of the ranger diesel pilot bearing sitting in a flywheel bolt hole behind the pilot bearing hole. Notice that the outer rim is part of the flywheel on the Ranger but part of the pilot bearing on the montero gas pilot bearing pic below it.



Here's the montero gas pilot bearing in the montero gas flywheel.



-Pmontero

I got the Ranger passenger-side motor mount bracket off today. I also finished removing the AC components from the Montero and worked on the positioning of windshield washer reservoir, coolant overflow and stock D50 diesel airbox. The airbox is going to be a tight fit and probably require relocation of the coolant reservoir to the driver's side. I have plenty of room now that I have removed the headlight washer assembly.

I'll post some pictures later. I'm going out to finish the oil pan swap now.

-Pmontero