Hi Dylanb,

When you get a chance, could you PM me with your clutch shop info?

-Pmontero

More work on the diesel swap today. I took apart the brackets holding up the vacuum pump to uncover and remove the last Ranger motor mount bracket. I put in two 3/8" washers as a spacer and reassembled the brackets. I ran a tap in the Montero mounting holes in the block and mounted both Montero motor mount brackets on the block. I also ran a tap through the fan pulley bolt holes on the water pump. Two of the four holes were not tapped properly but are clean now.

I'll post some pics when I get a chance. Here's a list of a few of the next steps:

1. Remove oil cooler connectors and find replacements. I think I will re-plumb an oil cooler before I'm done.
2. Mark the front of the power steering hose and remove it from the power steering pump. Mark the front of the power steering hose on the Montero and take both pieces to a hose fabrication shop
3. Remove crank pulley and replace broken timing covers. Check timing belts and tensioners for wear.

I'm going to do most of the seals while the engine is out including the rear main seal.

A few more weeks and the motor will be going in for a test run! I hope to have the motor running by the end of June.

-Pmontero

Hi
Just started my swap today. The original ranger pan fits nicely with no modifications at all. Has about 3 inches clearance above the front diff. My donor was a d 50 so the swap is much easier. power steering was just a matter of reconnecting hoses. I used a ranger pan and pickup because d 50 pan is front sump. Hope to have it completed tomorrow. I am using the glow plug controller from a ranger as well to utilize the dual voltage system on the glow plugs. Didn't us a d 50 controller because I only bought the engine without wiring. I will post pic's of how nicely the ranger pan fit once I figure out how to post pic's.

I removed the quick-release oil cooler lines and connectors from the 4D55 yesterday. I checked the threading on the connectors using my die set and they are M18x1.5 or 5/8"NF18. (UPDATE: This is the wrong thread pitch. I think it is 1/2" NPT but still need to verify) I know the former is a pretty standard size for oil drain plugs but I'm having a really hard time locating a barbed hose fitting with that male threading. I've tried Mcmaster-Carr and the internet. Does anyone have ideas on this? Dylan is going to check his but he found them through surplus. I've convinced myself now that I want to run an oil cooler so I don't want to block them off with drain plugs.

-Pmontero

Hi
Try these.
http://www.malonespecialtyinc.com/
http://www.j2precisionhose.com/products/Goodridge/Catalogue%20Pdf%27s/SECTION7.pdf

Hi
You don't need a fuel pump on your install. The injection pump provides the suction required to draw fuel from the tank. If you look up a 1984 ram 50 there is no fuel pump listing. I did my install on the weekend and it runs great. First check of mileage is 28.3 mpg. As far as the fuel tank goes I drained it, then replaced the drain plug poured in about 2 gallons of diesel and rocked the Raider a few times then drained the tank again. then topped it up. I used the existing fuel lines that were hooked to the fuel pump on the gas engine. No need to run a return line, just use the existing one. I used the Ranger glow controller and it works great. This actually was a really straight forward install. It took me a day and a half. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Wow! one and a half days? I'm going on 3 years. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> You should consider putting a small lift pump in to take the strain off of the injection pump.

-Pmontero

The d50 engine I have never had a lift pump. They don't even list one for it. It is the same as an early VW injection pump. They didn't have a lift pump either.

This morning, I pulled off the crankshaft pulley and replaced the broken lower timing cover with a better used one. I also pulled the valve cover, cleaned/polished it, replaced the gasket, rear rubber plug and bolt grommets.

Below are pics that show the Montero oil pan and motor mount brackets installed on both sides and you'll see the brass oil cooler connectors installed as well. I pulled the Ford oil pressure switch and will install a Ford oil gauge sender and hope it will work with the Montero gauge. The Montero 2.6 gauge sender is rated for 80psi and the Ford one is rated for 100psi. I'd use the Montero one but it has a smaller threaded connector.

In the front pic, you'll see that the Ford vacuum pump is off the engine. I'm sorting through the vacuum connectors for the brakes and injection pump. I have a brand new vacuum pump but the vacuum connector is facing the wrong way! It's blocked when installed so you can't put the hose on. Argh.

I'm going to be working on plumbing the biodiesel fuel lines at the injection pump and figuring out the wiring for the shutoff solenoid. (I can't find the connector now on the injection pump)

I'm close to having the engine ready except rear main seal that I'll do right before I mount the flywheel and am ready to drop the engine in. I still have lots of wiring to sort through, the fuel pump and alternator solution as well.

Here are some pics:

Hi
Be sure and blow out your oil cooler lines when doing your install, I had sludge coming out of the cooler/lines when I cleaned them out.