Actually, I asked the question here a few months ago about doing the Chrysler Voyager/Caravan 12v 3.0 swap here (can be done, but involves a bit more work), and yankneck was just doing his swap...he recommended it to me as the best solution. He was right! (thanks!) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

It was pretty straight-forward to swap the Stealth engine into my 90 LS...but most all external components are different between the two engines. Exhaust & intake manifolds are way different, yet easy enough to swap. Oil Pan is also shaped differently, but while swapping oil pan the oil pump needs to be swapped as well...due to differences external of the oil pump (very obvious when compared side to side), the biggest difference being the lower Alt mount on the Stealth pump won't allow the Monty P/S pump bracket to bolt up (see EDIT below), and also the Stealth pump (on my engine) lacked the mounting bosses for the oil cooler lines. Worst part of the oil pump swap is removing the crank T-belt sprocket (but removal of pump really help with seal replacement. And timing covers (front and rear pieces) are different as well. Well worth the time to clean & thread chase the engine mount bracket mounts from the Stealth engine also, as the engine mounts they use for the traverse engine are not in the same location as the RWD mounting pad, so they get dirty & cruddy inside. The water pump pipe from the back of the pump is also different, as it comes out into the center V of the bellhousing for traverse mounting. Oil Dipstick tube has to swap over as well.

Sounds like a lot more work than it really is, but one's own time is usually cheaper than one's money...was well-worth my investment to take the time to swap everything out. A helpful hint I have used a couple of times in the past 6 months, I buy the FULL gasket set, as it comes with all seals & gaskets needed for this swap. And to make it even easier, I bought my sets from some guy on EBay (gasket brand was JIS, seller I am unsure of, will post more when I find the info again), is a cheaper gasket set with graphite head gaskets (have used them once too with good results) and had less than $55 each for the FULL set. I think the sets I got were actually for Caravan/Voyager 3.0, but they usually come with the different configuration oil pump gaskets & such. And with such, I went ahead and replaced ALL seals & gaskets while I had it apart, since I was already there anyway. Valve covers will need to be swapped out as well, so their gaskets, as well as the cam end seals are easier to replace while out also. Rear main seal is easiest replaced while the oil pan is off also...naturally. Since mine is an automatic, I also decided to replace the torque converter seal while the engine was out, well worth the extra effort in the long run.

The guy I got my Stealth engine from was about 30 miles from me, he grenaded an input shaft bearing in his transaxle...bought this 88,000 miles eng/transaxle combo from an Ebay seller, had it shipped in from NY, used the transaxle, and sold me the Complete Engine (intake to oil pan, with starter) for $450.

Again, it was well worth it to me, I'd do it again this way without hesitation. Good Luck! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

EDITED TO ADD: I wanted to correct what I said about the Stealth lower alternator bracket made onto the oil pump, it is actually on the side opposite the oil filter (right when FACING engine), and will not allow the Montero A/C comressor bracket to be mounted, NOT the Montero alternator as I previously said. I think that the oil filter adapter from the Stealth engine was actually of some interference to the P/S pump beacket, but swapping the oil filter adapter to the one from the Montero engine will work (use proper gasket!) and also the oil cooler line bosses will be swaaped as well, as they are part of this bolt-on adapter. Sorry, just didn't wish to confuse anyone. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />