one more thought.
it is easy to see how disks work. harder to see how drums work.
just like it is easy to see how a manual transmission works compared to an automatic.

So your saying that the E brake freezing up every year despite regular use is my fault because I dont know what Im doing? Or are you just saying that is acceptable?
Have you ever seen a disc to drum conversion kit?
My TV has a channel up down button on it, TV's have had them for years, it works ok, does it mean I want to get up and push it every time I want to change a channel?

Honestly, if the E brake worked fine I would not mess with the drums even though I should because when they go out of adjustment its a saftey issue for my wife. But the way I see it, I have 3 optons, 1 rebuild the whole Ebrake system yet again, and again, and again. 2 Install a $400 drive shaft or Transfer case brake that I will need to fabricate parts for. Or 3 swap the drums (wich I hate BTW <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> ) out to disc for around $250.

One thing that Matt brought up is the fact that the axle will move in and out causing a low pedal. You might want residual valves to counter this. If you go the full floater route the discs won't move in and out. Go with fourwheel disc, but know what you are getting into. They require alot of set up. I run both. On my drum brakes I powder coated the bell crank arms and pack them grease. Note my location. I drive it every day. No problems going on three years. Choice is up to you. Good luck. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

How much run out are we talking? The Chevy calipers float on the bolts no? If the axles walked out that much would it not cause problems for the drums as well?

ummmm, yes, no, yes (I have been working on toys for over 20 years now).
What the fawk has a TV have to do with ***** brakes????
this is a serious subject..... failure of brakes kills.

do what you want then and don't ask others for input.

wife.. humm so you must be over 16 years old.
I am giving advice (opinion) that you asked for.... no you did not ask me. but asked the bbs as a whole.
you can rebuild your drum brakes for less then 100.00 but you want to spend all this money for the disks, most kits don't give you a parking brake.
so if you are made of money and your wife can't figure out how to shift into low range and leave it in gear. ( ok sorry, but this subject of disks vs drums is getting to me, not just your post but many... ok).

then by all means go disks.. don't ***** about what it costs. do some searches, the information is out there, and yes I have read many of them. but I do think that your cost est are a bit low.

for the parking brake, and it is only good for about 24 hours is a line lock. after that it runs down the battery then you are screwed.

but, I have only been working on stuff like this for 30 years. so what do I know.

this is why some times people post a question and don't get any input. After 3 or 4 of these defence posts you get to where you figure, they will learn, why fight it. so we that have been there done that, watch you learn vs telling you what we have learned.
(oh, ps, I am being way nice about this).

good luck with what ever you do.
(sorry but your reply pisssssed me off a bit. if you are going to ask what to do, thank the people that give you input, but then take all advice and do what you want.) but don't single people out that you think are giving you bad advice.

now that I am E pissed. here is my take. you are young, never really worked on stuff, (yeh, I can way understand the wife thing, I want mine to be safe also) you don't or have not made any major mods to a truck/car and want to do it right. but don't know what is right or what is way over kill. but smart enough or savy enough to know that there is a difference.
there I go again.
it is just frustrating to see some one ask advice, do what they want, spend $$ then end up doing what you suggested in the first place.

this bbs needs a tech sticky like some of the other bbs's

I have a question that is related and may be a factor to consider. How well does the automatic shoe adjuster function, of the stock set-up, work to keep the brakes at optimum adjustment?

As far as residual valves for wobbly disks; I'm going to guess that it doesn't work. If a disk is wobbling and a non-floating caliper can't let the pads back-off you will have a dragging brake. I could be wrong though. I'm certainly no expert. -- Matt

oh,,, and be sure to thank the bbs that you have a place to come to like this for advice.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Little e-disgruntled, still?

Your post was spot on. One person complaining about a so-called problem that others either don't have, can easily fix or can prevent with regular maintenance and then getting defensive about the responses is not a good way to make friends or be taken seriously.

I've owned many vehicles and the Toy parking brake is dang good and rarely gives problems. The rear drums (the post 85 larger ones like Erik mentioned) are quite sufficient. And there is absolutely ZERO reason for a parking brake lever to freeze if it's being used and maintained properly (which basically just means used daily and inspected annually)

Wow, ok first thing first. Missouriman, I appreciate a good spirted debate, and I could see you were giving me some spirted practical advice. I can take it in good spirt and I saw that you intended no personal offence so I can give my POV back in the same spirt but its apparent I have offended you and I am truly sorry and I do not mean personal offence and I will not pursue that corse as I do apreciate this board very much and the excellent advice I get on here. You are correct in that I am over 16 BTW <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> and lets just say I have enough wrench cred not to be intimidated by the disc conversion and right now that is all thats being debated.
My simple point is I plan to trash the drums sooner or later. Just a matter of $ and there is still a turbo charger to be shoved in this thing that need a rebuild.
The thread was started to gain disc upgrade information and it has done that as I have sevral options and there are very good ideas and technical discussion going on here.
Matt I have serious issues with the stock shoe adjusters, not only do they not adjust well, they do not adjust even from side to side and start to cause quite a ruddering effect when you hit the brakes. I adjust them and a few months later when I drive the truck and it pulls hard.
Anyway, I intend at this point to use the sky brackets for $80, get a set of used rear Chevy floating E brake calipers for around $150 or less, rebuild them if needed for about $25 and make them work. Im still not sure if I need sky's rotors yet or if there is a stock one that will work. Sky's were $80 for 2 (not bad) I think.
Again, the big catalyst here is the bad E brake. The truck is stick and a turbo is going in with a turbo timer for spin down so the truck needs to stay put while the fan gets cool.
The entire project is on Her dime so everyting is being done as cheap as possible with improvements were needed or advised. We spent 1/3 of our motor cost on good machiene work and I did the rest myself. My target budget for the disc convert is $500 or less. I really dont want to put this turbo in until Im happy with the e brake, and the brakes.

Most folks have found disk brake parking brakes to be problematic, which is why many manufacturers that use rear disks have a smaller drum brake that is mounted inside the disk hub. Many manufacturers are going back to rear drums because of the parking brake problem.

Also, drums are self energizing due to the rotation of the drum against the shoe. The friction of the drum on the shoe will pull the shoe into the drum (self energizing it), hence the need for all those return springs. One shoe is self energizing in one direction, the other is self energizing in the other direction. There is no difference between forward and backward.

As far as I know, you only have three choices for discs and parking brake, unless you want to fab your own.

The Front Range Off Road kit, using calipers with built in parking brake.

The Chevy rotors with Cadillac calipers: You'll have to have the hole in Chevy rotors opened up to fit on your hubs, and then make some kind of parking brake cable arrangement, and get metric-SAE hoses.

The Chevy rotors with T-case brake: Same trouble as above, except more expensive. The T-case parking brake has a significant mechanical advantage, since it gets the benefit of the axle ratio to stop the wheels.

At any rate, good luck with your problem. Let us know your solution.