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stupid bolt
#793960
03/02/07 04:10 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 88
OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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i apologise ahead of time for such a lame/neebie question...
i'm trying to get the 2" bolt (got the castle nut off) that connects the end link to the sway bar loose... i've used liquid wrench and pounded it plenty with a hammer. no dice.
do i keep pounding + liquid wrenching? any other ideas?
4.2 '87 yj, 263,000 miles, mopar mpi, 33" mud bfg, skyjacker 4", 3.73 gears, arb lockers-f and r., tom wood's 2.07 shaft conversion, tom wood's hd driveshaft, magnaflow/custom exhaust, 4wd bumper/swing-out tire carrier
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Re: stupid bolt
[Re: bhartwell59]
#793961
03/02/07 09:10 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,768
Web Wheeler
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Put a real heavy C-clamp on it and when very tight WHACK it with a bfh and then tighten the C again and WHACK it again.. Don't be afraid of breaking the thing...whack it! Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />
professional bovine relocation specialist
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Re: stupid bolt
[Re: BigJim]
#793962
03/02/07 09:31 PM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 60
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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Ralk '97 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L 105k Miles Recent Replacements: Cam Shaft, Lifters, Push Rods, Distributor, Dist. Cap/button, Plugs, Oil Pump, Oil Sending Unit, Timing Chain/sprokets, and all associated gaskets.
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Re: stupid bolt
[Re: RalkClimber]
#793963
04/23/07 03:00 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 88
OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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i still haven't gotten this bolt off (been busy for a while). all i'm trying to do is separate the bolt from the front sway bar and replace the bushings in the end link.
but i had a thought... would using a pickle fork be a good idea? i'd be able to pound and pry apart at the same time.
4.2 '87 yj, 263,000 miles, mopar mpi, 33" mud bfg, skyjacker 4", 3.73 gears, arb lockers-f and r., tom wood's 2.07 shaft conversion, tom wood's hd driveshaft, magnaflow/custom exhaust, 4wd bumper/swing-out tire carrier
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Re: stupid bolt
[Re: bhartwell59]
#793964
04/23/07 03:44 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,768
Web Wheeler
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For guys that work with lumber and nails the pickle fork seems to be a good idea. But my experience with them on frozen bolts and rod ends is NADA! NOTHING! NEVER! You simply beat yourself silly and then look for another method.
By far the best way is as has been described. Adding heat is always a PLUS! Them things are engineered to go in there and STAY IN THERE. Getting em apart can sometimes be a handful. Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />
professional bovine relocation specialist
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Re: stupid bolt
[Re: bhartwell59]
#793965
04/23/07 04:20 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,087
Body Damage is Cool
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I'm in the process of putting new quick disconnects on the sway bar on my CJ7. Everything was rusted so bad that the sway baar wouldn't rotate in its bushings after I got the links off. So I totally removed the sway bar from the vehicle so I could put it in the big vise on my workbench and work on it.
You may find that taking the hole thing off and clamping parts of it in our vise may be a better way to go, cause you can get good leverage and apply force more exactly where you want it. It's also easier to heat up without worrying about burning gasoline lines, brake lines, and wiring.
1977 CJ-7, fiberglass body, AMC 360 w/ headers, DUI ignition, Edelbrock intake and Holley 4150 carb, TF999, Dana 300, 4.56 gears lockers, York air comp, 4" susp lift, 2" body lift, BFG 35" M-T tires, Megashifter, AGR pump & box, REP8000 winch.
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Re: stupid bolt
[Re: bhartwell59]
#793966
04/24/07 06:49 AM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 35
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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i had an old muscle car that did the same thing to me, i took a c clamp and put a bar on it then braced one side and pounded on the other side, kinda like a seesaw, that gave me more room to hit it and a little more power with each strike,that and about a can and a half of wd40
If you cant get there in a jeep you probably dont need to get there
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Re: stupid bolt
[Re: doublediamonds]
#793967
04/24/07 09:55 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 88
OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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there's always one darn side that turns out to be a PITA.
i guess the best thing to do is take the whole darn sway bar-plus the frozen bolt/end link off and as you guys say just pound it.
4.2 '87 yj, 263,000 miles, mopar mpi, 33" mud bfg, skyjacker 4", 3.73 gears, arb lockers-f and r., tom wood's 2.07 shaft conversion, tom wood's hd driveshaft, magnaflow/custom exhaust, 4wd bumper/swing-out tire carrier
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Re: stupid bolt
[Re: bhartwell59]
#793968
04/28/07 05:37 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 315
Mudrunner
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Yep, a definate PITA. HEAT, HEAT, and more HEAT. It will take a bit of time, the sway bar is like a heat sink. Definately a "put it in a vice" deal. The bushings will catch on fire, be brave but watch where the flaming chunks go, I set fire to a bucket with a rag in the bottom when concentrating on the bolt and lost some leg hair <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> but it finally gave up. I used channelocks to grip the big end to twist it out and keep up with the hot bolt. This kept the threads intact and undamaged. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
77 fiberglass CJ-7 304, Ground up Resto-mod Edelbrock Air Gap, Holley 1850, Headers and Flowmasters, Black Diamond suspension, BFG 33X9.50 on Outlaw I's. Hopefully on the road this year!
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Re: stupid bolt
[Re: hlhneast]
#793969
04/29/07 04:04 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 353
Mudrunner
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idk about you guys but thats what a pickle fork is used for. that way your only putting stress on the part your removing and not the other parts, i have never once had a problem removing anything with a pickle fork, i guess you guys just arnt manly enough haha
WHEN THE ROAD ENDS, THE FUN BEGINS
97 sahara, 4in skyjacker lift, 33in tires, borla header & catback, 10in subs
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