Hi Everybody,
I'm Chris and I'm new here. I have a 1988 YJ with a 4.2, Auto Trans, all stock except for a Motorcraft 2100 carb (works great) and 32s that barely fit. I have big plans for the YJ, but no money so it will probably stay stock for a while. When I close my eyes the jeep is sprung over with 35's on narrowed high pinion dana 60s and powered by a TBI 350 Chevy, SM420 and a Dana 300. Until I win the lottery, I need your help to figure out how to make it as capable as possible for as little money as possible.

The Problem:
I'd like to run a lunch box locker in the back. I know the stock axles are very very weak and I've seen people say that a locker will break the Dana 35.

Option number one is to get a Ford 8.8 and have my buddy weld some perches on it either sprung over (Which I like) or under (which is less work). Good things are that it's very very strong, I can use my same wheels (right?) and I get disk brakes if I find a 95 or newer. The bad things are that the gear ratios might not match, and I keep the stock front axle, which brings us to:

Option number two is to get a pair of dana 44s from a wagoneer. Good things are that the dana 44s are pretty strong, if I get 2 from the same vehicle the gear ratios will match, I don't have to worry about the stock front axle because I get a much stronger one with selectable hubs and no vacuum disconnect. The bad things are that I will have to buy new wheels, and the dana 44 rear is not as strong as the Ford 8.8 would have been.

My quandry is what's more important-- to have a bulletproof rear end (with a weak front end) or to have a pretty strong rear end and a pretty strong front end too? Will I break a rear dana 44? Will I break the front dana 30?

Also, I understand that the wagoneer axle perches are only 1 inch further apart than the YJ perches. Can I just re-drill the pilot holes half an inch inboard on each side and grind as needed for the U bolts? Or do I really really need to weld new perches on?

Finally, the local self serve wrecking yard here charges $150 for an axle, and the last time I was there I saw a wagoneer with d44s front and rear with a drivers side front drop, and I also saw an explorer with a 8.8 with drum brakes.

Thanks everybody, and sorry about the long first post.

Howdy chris.. You left out where you live and where you will take the Jeep.
With that carb on there it needs the nutter bypass done..
What size tires do you have on there now?
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Hi Big Jim,
I'm running 32x11.50 "Summit Mud Dawgs" right now, watching some TJ flares on ebay. The nutter bypass huh? I plan on switching over to a GM HEI distributor before long, I'm not to familiar with the nutter bypass but I guess it would get me better performance for free between now and then right?

I live in California for a little while longer so I'm not really supposed to change anything, but by the time I need to smog it again I will live in Coeur D' Alene, Idaho. I haven't done a whole lot of 4 wheeling, so I can't really say for sure exactly what I want to do with the Jeep, but I like mountain trails. I'm not a huge mud or sand fan, though there is a river bed like a mile from my house and it's fun to go derbin' through there with my buddies. Thanks in advance for all the advice!
Chris

With a different carb and no "nutter" your engine is prolly running waaaay retarded! With the 32's on there I'm surprised it don't run hot.
The carb you took off was controlled by the computer in your jeep...just as the dist still is.. The carb and dist make up the control the computer has on the smog. So now all the computer has is the dist..and it retards the timing trying to get the smog correct.. and it cannot without the factory carb.
So when changing the carb one MUST do the nutter bypass to make the engine run correctly.
Together with the tall tires no doubt you are wanting for more horsepower. Do the nutter and check the gearing to see what is in that ride..should be 3:07 from the factory.
If 3:07 put some 4:11's in there and you will be happy for a long time.
Then when you get ready to do a huge upgrade to that jeep...just trade it for a rubicon and you will be a lot happier.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Good post, Chris. It's much better to ask a lot of questions before handing over the money. My first thought concerning your post, are you sure Idaho is so backward that it doesn't have similar emission laws as California?
It's sort of true, no money --- no build! You're doing well, though. I suggest building in stages after developing a well thought-out plan with plenty of input from someone who's actively in the trade of building 4x4's! The first step is to learn what is necessary to achieve your final goal,sprung-over with 35's and lockers. There are a few articles at 4x4wire that discuss doing exactly what you want to do to your YJ. This would be a good beginning.
I wouldn't begin pulling parts from the boneyard until I had developed a real doable plan with a 4x4 builder.
Idaho isn't exactly a 4-wheeling "Mecca", however, I'm sure there are several interesting trails there for hardcore four wheelers. More than likely, what you're building there for California four wheeling venues will be way over built for Idaho, except for the short block engine.
With a good plan, building in stages, your built Jeep should be much less than the cost of a Rubicon. But,the project you have outlined above is going to run at least $10,000 in parts, even considering the fact that you're going to scavenge the boneyards for as many parts as is possible. That's just a guess, could cost you a lot more to do a complete bug-free sprungover Jeep w/ a shortblock.
A built Jeep IMHO is much better than a new Rubicon, one thing's for sure, you'll not have to fret over dents and scratches in your old YJ. Yes sir! you've pick a fine hobby, empty-pockets! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

First, go through all that dreaming and "narrowed" is the best you can come up with? Re-dream with 38" tires minimum to justify the expense of D60s front and rear, next leave them full width so it will be stable and be able to steer those big tires. Rear High pinion 60 is dreaming for guys with pretty deep pockets. Being as they are ALL custom built, (none exist in any stock application).

Reality check, Jim, get off the NB bullshi* no one needs to have that brought up out of the blue, if the mod is paying attention those posts should be being deleted.

In CA no part off taking the OE carb off is legal. So for now shhhh....and hope you don't get popped at a road side emission inspection. Or save up your dimes for a 50 state legal TBI system. Besides It'll run much better.

Unless you are a mechanicle wiz, plan on the jeep being down for more than a weekend to do major axle swaps. Even one end at a time. Are you a welder or know one with a 220 unit? Plan on that too.

Wrecking yard axles for $150 are just that, none are safe to just bolt in, so having the skills yourself to rebuild and build up the axles you find are on you, or, paying someone (like me) to build them for you.

Next is deciding how built to go and what trails you plan on running? Name a few and we be able to help to decide what axles and lockers to use.

Lunchbox lockers are junk in 98% of cases Aussies are built better than most, but that ain't saying a bunch.
Powertrax makes a nice quiet running locker, BUT, the darn thing costs almost what a detroit locker does. So, why?

Next, no matter how you build it, breakage will happen, so this brings me to doing it slowly as opposed to or(in your case)slowly aquiring lots of parts having axles built over the next 5-10 years then taking the rig out of commision for a month or 6 and build it right one time with all the best affordable stuff....Doing the latter, makes it so you never go jeeping, only spending money and dreaming.

If you build it slowly and learn as you go where you can save a buck and where you simply must chunk some money down. Lockers is no place to go cheapo. DIY gear work is another.
Your stock dana 30 front axle with a little help can handle 35" tires as long as you are not a throttle jockey.
Heck, Fred is still running a d30 with 38" tires.

So this brings us to the rear axle, the POS M35, get rid of that first, an 8.8 is good but never a drum brake one ICK.
Only disc brakes with an 8.8.
Also a d44 is a great choice, but not one from a waggy, rather one from an xj or yj or even an mj.
The yj one is the only one that bolts up. the others both need spring perch reloaction/replacment. These axles keep the OE 5 on 4.5 wheel pattern. Leave it as an open diff for a while, no locker, now....

Go wheeling.

SD

Reality check, Jim, get off the NB bullshi* no one needs to have that brought up out of the blue, if the mod is paying attention those posts should be being deleted.

OK SO A GUY COMES ON HERE AND SAYS HE HAS ALREADY CHANGED THE CARB AND THE THING IS RUNNING BADLY! damn caps key
What am I supposed to say? " Well guy I know what is wrong with the way it is running..but they won't let me say it here?"
Gimme some hints on how to tell someone they have fuxed up.. and the beast is running badly from what they left out when they made replacements in their engine parts.
Aren't we here to help fellows that ask questions about how to get the ride back on the road?
I am not advertising for EVERYONE to do a nutter.. But those that have already desmoged their engine and need help are getting what it is I can help with.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Jim "assume" Big,
This guy is happy with the way it runs.

No need for NB for any reason.

SD

Thanks everyone,

Superdawg: What type of 'help' does the d30 need to make it last? I do have a buddy who welds for a living and will bring his big welding truck over here if I buy him some beer. If I go spring over now, will the 32s look waaaay too small? I can't afford new tires for a while, but if I'm going to have perches welded on I might as well go SOA now and not waste his and my time later.

Big Jim: I asked for advice and that's what you gave me, once I get the engine back together (changing the rings right now, you can see everywhere I've been by following the oil...) I'll try the NB and see if it runs even better. Thanks.

I like this forum a lot already.
Chris

PS While changing the rings I just found that the last guy installed them with all of the ring gaps lined up (DUH) and the #6 piston is broken. That must be what that tapping noise was when it was cold...

You are installing cast iron rings aren't you? Where was the piston broken?
I have never seen all the gaps lined up before...that is elementary ring installation.
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />