Drained my ATF pan today, wanted to change the crush washer but could not find the right size at local parts dump, did not make trip to dealer.

Is there a generic size for this [11 mm ID?] Also one side of mine has a circular inlet between ID and OD - don't know if this goes to the pan side or bolt head side?

This is maybe 6th time I have reused the same washer - if the stealership doesn't want more than a couple bucks I may buy a few for future drains.

i never re-use them.

here is the last price i have from carroll, but it has probably gone up a little.

$1.38 part # 35178-30010

These are 2-5 cents each when you buy 100 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

I have a bunch of aluminium washers in my kit (not the copper ones with the gap that completely deform.) I'll send you a few if I have the size you need. They are measured inner x outer x thickness in mm.

The manual transmission and transfer case seals are 18 x 24 x 2; 18 x 24 x 1.5 seem to work fine. Actual dimensions are about 0.20mm tolerance tho.

I just bought some Friday-same part number as above and local dealer charged $1.89 ea.

Can you do me a favor if it is still apart? If you look at the drain hole, do the threads begin right on the outside of the pan or is there a little bit of unthreaded area before you hit them? Can't figure out if I stripped the bolt or the pan.

What crush washer? I've never used one and the owner before didn't either, and it doesn't leak. I thought it odd, but the parts guy said there wasn't one (1996 T-100). I must admit that the bolt acts peculiar when you remove it. The first couple of turns it spins easy and then more resistance so you have to use the wrench. I thought maybe the threads were intentionally deformed so that it wouldn't fall out on its own if the bolt loosens. Also you need to loosen it a couple of turns before any oil starts to drain, so the threads themselves must be sealing.

Both of my 93 T's had the same weird bolt removal characteristic of appearing to be stripping. But they did not leak. Both had crush washers similar to those on some spark plugs. On the other hand the Corollas (91 and 03) did not have crush washers and still acted the same way. Wonder if there was something the design guys did.

My drain bolt has done the same thing. I figured it was a design failsafe too. Finally stripped either the bolt or pan. Can't tell because when I look at the end of the bolt there are 2 layers so either it is made that way which would explain the weird tightening or when I stripped the pan the threads came off with the bolt. If I can get the Toyota replacement, maybe I will be able to tell.

I think you may have stripped out the pan. I don't recall the bolt looking like it had two layers. I would think an automotive store should have an insert or something that you could use to fix the pan, similar to how you fix a stripped spark plug hole.

i agree. you stripped it. you should only torque that bolt to about 20 ft-lb. get a tap to clean it up and a new bolt. don't re-use the washer. a $1 washer is not worth a $100 trans pan.

I figured it probably was the pan. I was using far less than 20ft#s and it kept spinning so there must not be much metal there. Another bolt comes in tomorrow so I will see if I can salvage it. If not, I am thinking of using a 1/8" threaded brass pipe cap. The tap looks like it will work and since the threads are tapered on the cap it should seal pretty good. If not, teflon tape. Then I can take the time to replace the pan and do it right later.