It will have more go, but it will be a tight fit. Also cammed way wrong for a truck.

I'm working on a 3.0T, with one custom exhaust manifold and a Mitsu 14G turbo, with 8-8.25:1 pistons. I'm hopeful the 3000TT pistons will fit OK. You could swap your heads onto the TT block and do the same, but then you'd need new exhaust manifolds, as the dohc exh mani's won't fit the sohc 12v ports.

I found an aftermarket cast turbo manifold with a turbo kit for a 3.0 galant, and another for the smaller v6 that might fit with a bunch of porting. The caveat here is that the galant was fwd, and the mani might interfere with the rwd monty engine compartment stuff. My fallback is a new custom 1/2" flange plus sch 40 weld ells and tees and turbo flange, layout and fitting and tackup by yours truly, tig by a real welder.

I ultimately want to build a 6G75 3.8 sohc 24v turbo motor. This one is the practice run. Maybe a 16G or a 20g turbo on the big motor. If the driveline survives the 3.0sohc12vT.

RPG in Oz has a really nifty upper intake for the 6G7x motors I keep drooling over. velocity stacks in the plenum. tapered runners. helmholtzed for mid range torque. really, really nasty looking. you can reach both valve covers....

I've driven I24 at Monteagle, and run 64 e-w. I sympathize with the need for go juice. My turbo 2.6 2dr a/t would climb up Monteagle Nbound in o/d at 70mph without downshift unless I needed to pass. Pulling a 1200lb popup camper with 3 loaded & iced monstro coolers + "stuff" and 4 people aboard. I kinda miss that....

I would not attemp the swap unless I could get:
motor with all accessories
radiator
engine oil cooler and lines
entire ecu and wiring harness and all sensors and relays and thingys, plus the body side of the ecu to rest of car main wiring conncector complete with a pigtail of 6" of wire from the body side of the harness, for later splicing into your truck's existing ecu harness connector body side. You HAVE to have both the wiring diagram for the donor AND the wiring diagram for the truck to integrate the 3TT system into the truck. Also get the efi relay output wire to the fuel pump with connector and as long a pigtail as you can cut, for wiring up your new and bigger fuel pump.

I'd measure the motor width at various heights, vs. the stocker, and make sure it at least looks like it will fit before you buy it.

If you don't do it, I'm interested in a 3/0TT short block for mine and ebay the heads, and I'll sell you kit#1 from FastEddy's 3.0 turbo shop. Price TBA. Kits from mild to wild. Double stock torque (150 x two). Burn more and more expensive gas. Go wheeeeEEEEEEEEEEE..........