Was wondering, I found a motor for a good price, haven't really looked into the matching up part, but by any chance with the existing tranny in my 1990 3.0L 4-speed Auto, do you think by any chance that a "1992 3000GT/Stealth VR4 3.0L Twin Turbo" might hook together with the existing tranny? I realize that the rear-end and other drive line componets may not handle the HP/Torque if it does. Hope its not a dumb question, Thanks!!...... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

It will bolt up and if you do not dial up the boost to much the driveline will be fine. I intend to do this swap but with customer commitments and winter hanging around it will be awhile still.

Thanks for the reply, You will probably get around before I do any how, But when you get started, I want you to be the Guinea Pig. I just want some more get up and go bootie since I have to merge at 70mph everyday during rush hour and more Low-end power for some pulling with the Twin Turbo, The 33/12.5's tire really kick my Monty's butt while trying to keep 70-75mph on the interstate while going up hills in Tennessee...also the braggin' rights too, (Of Course!) I know there are other horsepower alternatives, But this is just what I want......Thx... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

300+ ft-lbs @ 2500 rpm is attractive.

It will have more go, but it will be a tight fit. Also cammed way wrong for a truck.

I'm working on a 3.0T, with one custom exhaust manifold and a Mitsu 14G turbo, with 8-8.25:1 pistons. I'm hopeful the 3000TT pistons will fit OK. You could swap your heads onto the TT block and do the same, but then you'd need new exhaust manifolds, as the dohc exh mani's won't fit the sohc 12v ports.

I found an aftermarket cast turbo manifold with a turbo kit for a 3.0 galant, and another for the smaller v6 that might fit with a bunch of porting. The caveat here is that the galant was fwd, and the mani might interfere with the rwd monty engine compartment stuff. My fallback is a new custom 1/2" flange plus sch 40 weld ells and tees and turbo flange, layout and fitting and tackup by yours truly, tig by a real welder.

I ultimately want to build a 6G75 3.8 sohc 24v turbo motor. This one is the practice run. Maybe a 16G or a 20g turbo on the big motor. If the driveline survives the 3.0sohc12vT.

RPG in Oz has a really nifty upper intake for the 6G7x motors I keep drooling over. velocity stacks in the plenum. tapered runners. helmholtzed for mid range torque. really, really nasty looking. you can reach both valve covers....

I've driven I24 at Monteagle, and run 64 e-w. I sympathize with the need for go juice. My turbo 2.6 2dr a/t would climb up Monteagle Nbound in o/d at 70mph without downshift unless I needed to pass. Pulling a 1200lb popup camper with 3 loaded & iced monstro coolers + "stuff" and 4 people aboard. I kinda miss that....

I would not attemp the swap unless I could get:
motor with all accessories
radiator
engine oil cooler and lines
entire ecu and wiring harness and all sensors and relays and thingys, plus the body side of the ecu to rest of car main wiring conncector complete with a pigtail of 6" of wire from the body side of the harness, for later splicing into your truck's existing ecu harness connector body side. You HAVE to have both the wiring diagram for the donor AND the wiring diagram for the truck to integrate the 3TT system into the truck. Also get the efi relay output wire to the fuel pump with connector and as long a pigtail as you can cut, for wiring up your new and bigger fuel pump.

I'd measure the motor width at various heights, vs. the stocker, and make sure it at least looks like it will fit before you buy it.

If you don't do it, I'm interested in a 3/0TT short block for mine and ebay the heads, and I'll sell you kit#1 from FastEddy's 3.0 turbo shop. Price TBA. Kits from mild to wild. Double stock torque (150 x two). Burn more and more expensive gas. Go wheeeeEEEEEEEEEEE..........

I had hoped to use a 3000GT SOHC lower intake on my engine, but found that the GT version is apparently designed to face the rear of the block. It will bolt 180* reversed to the heads so the water box faces the front, but the water box then interferes with the water pump outlet. Also, the GTs did not have A/Ts, so there's no provision for the O/D switch. There's one more sensor hole missing on the version I have, but I'm not sure which one - maybe the EGR vacuum switch.

There's probably a longitudinal variant lower intake that will work..... the Montero 24v DOHC piece should do the job.

Frank

The automatic in the GT was electronic shift so it took its info from the the ECU.
The 3.5 Dohc parts just fit the tall block.

You could weld up the SOHC manifold to move the TB.

I was mixing SOHC and DOHC models in the above post, but thought only a couple of VR4s were made with A/Ts.

Since the Montero had a 24v DOHC engine, why not use that engine and couple it with the VR4 exhaust manifolds and turbos, ECU, injectors and sensors? It would seem to be readily available at a reasonable price and have better cams for a truck? If you wanted the TT pistons, they could be installed during a likely-needed rebuild. Unlike the Gen1 OBD1 ECUs, the later VR4 ECU is flash programmable and adaptable to a number of aftermarket piggyback controllers so it should adapt to the truck cams quite well. You'd probably have to make a custom intake piping arrangement anyway.

Frank

Hi Frank,
Over in Japan the A/T VR4 was very common. For them finding a manual GTO is like us finding Manual Gen2s.

Do you or anyone know if the early OBD II ECU is programable.
The Turbo Eclipse is not without changing the prom but I do not know what year the flash programing started.

I *think* the OBDII is flash programmable beginning with 1998 - so this seems to suggest:



Mitsubishi Motors

Here's a useless piece of infomation: the first flash reprogrammable PCM was in the 1990 Geo Storm. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Frank