I have a 1996 Rodeo. I want to lift her, suspension lift most likely. After searching I only found info on second gen rodeo lifts, so im kinda in the dark.

Heres my questions:
Best size lift?
Where can I get it?
How much will it cost?
How hard is it to do?

Thanks all, looking forward to reply's, want to start the season out right!

Best size tire all depends on the terrain you'll be on. Generally speaking, most of us on here run between a 31 and 33 and some of us 35s. The front CVs can be ify with 35s and above, so most of us stick to a 33 limit.

Lift is as simple as cranking the torsion bars up front and add-a-leaves, shackles, new springs or a combination of such in the rear. You can also go the body lift route, but most prefer a suspension lift to a body lift. Check out Independent4x.com. Matt's a member of this board and an all around good guy. He'll get you what you need. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Cost is all dependent on how/what you do. Tires can be $200+ a piece depending on the tire. Also depends on what deals you can find. I got my 33s for $100 a piece because discount quoted me that for a tire they didn't have in stock, so when I showed up, they made good on their quote and gave me a more expensive tire for that amount. Front can be lifted for nothing usually and the back can be as simple as about $50 shackles to a few hundred for new leaves, all depending on what you want/need. Body lift is usually around the $150ish area.

It's not that hard to do assuming you're pretty mechanically confident in what you do. It can be done in your driveway without any special tools really. Maybe some bigger sockets than you normally have lying around, but they're not some exotic bread of tool either. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Richard <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

someone linked me to http://independent4x.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=839915%7C1016330&PRID=1117262

is it really necessary?

No, all of that is not totally necessary, but it's a good complete kit.

You won't need front shocks, but you will need rear shocks. The front length doesn't change. It's only the preload that changes. The rear does change however and you'll need shocks that are the amount of lift longer than your current shocks.

Ball joint spacers aren't necessary, but when combined with the ball joint flip, it'll help the alignment be able to be brought back to specs.

U bolts are needed if you do the add-a-leaf or new springs route. Always good to use new u bolts as the old ones can stretch.

Low profile bumpstops are a good idea as the factory ones can not allow enough of a drop in the suspension and making it a harsher ride because you're riding on them all the time. The alternative is to trim the factory ones down.

Rear brake line extension isn't necessarily needed. It all depends on the amount of lift you go for. The higher you lift it, the less slack you have in the rear brake line and when the suspension flexes, you can break the brake line if it doesn't have enough slack in it.

If you're on a budget and doing this a little at a time, piecing it together is your best bet. BUT if you've got the money and want it all done right and complete the first time, I'd get this kit. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Richard <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Ding ding! Thats probably what im gonna have to do. So if I take everything you said that isnt totally necessary, and take opposite and get all that I should be alright? Kind of confusing, but im glad to hear I dont need that $500 dollar kit.

I think I covered all that you'll really need. Hopefully someone else will chime in if I missed something. All of this seems like second nature to me by now so I could be missing something and not realize it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />

Richard

Well, it seems im getting 2 totally different answers. I posted the same thing on planetisuzoo, and they are saying just go 1-2 inches, because 3+ is hard to do and really expensive. Personally, 3" is the minimum lift I think I should go, because whats the use in 1-2 inches? I just dont get it.

Heres a link to the thread:
http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=11915

Any input at this point over here is <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> because they seen to be quite negative, lol.

3" is about the max you can go before running into more problems like CV reliability issues due to them running at such extreme angles. Sounds to me like that one person is a little over exaggerating. He was going off on how this can be an expensive "hobby" and not on how to lift your truck. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Richard <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

I'm failing to see how any of the above is required with a 3" suspension lift. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

With that said, I have a 2" suspension lift and 1.25" body lift; and I'm happy I went that route over a 3" suspension lift. It allowed me to lift the gas tank, mount sliders flush with the bottom of the frame, and have better CV angles. I also made and installed some drop 1.25" drop diff brackets, bringing my CV angles down to what they would be with only .75" of lift. Lesser lift also preserves more droop for good on-road characteristics, which is where I spend 99.99% of the miles my truck sees. JMHO on the matter, the majority of people just do the 3" supsension lift and are happy with it. You'll likely need a one-piece driveshaft made regardless of whether you go 2" or 3".

I think it's more like he was quite negative, I was just trying to help out man <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />