4. while you have the front diff down for the new diff brackets you'll want to go ahead and regear, and put a LSD or locker up there.... woops... gotta regear the back too.... uho... better put a locker back there too... (might as well since you have to replace the carrier to regear these things anyways, lol)...
5. bought 33s and they rub on the frame when you turn.... so now you have to buy wheels with a different backspacing to clear the frame.... but then it rubs the fenders instead.. so now you have pound those back... but now you have messed up metal around the wheel wells and have to reprime/paint and put some fender flares over...
6... my god you don't have anyplace to mount that winch... $700 bumper... no prob...
7. HIDs...
8. might as well do that body lift now... you found some 35 inch tires you want to make fit....
9.... crap they don't fit as well as you had planned... but you really want to run em.... solid axle swap time... but now you have to undo the body lift because the axle swap will give more lift than you really had in mind anyways...
I'm failing to see how any of the above is
required with a 3" suspension lift. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
With that said, I have a 2" suspension lift and 1.25" body lift; and I'm happy I went that route over a 3" suspension lift. It allowed me to lift the gas tank, mount sliders flush with the bottom of the frame, and have better CV angles. I also made and installed some drop 1.25" drop diff brackets, bringing my CV angles down to what they would be with only .75" of lift. Lesser lift also preserves more droop for good on-road characteristics, which is where I spend 99.99% of the miles my truck sees. JMHO on the matter, the majority of people just do the 3" supsension lift and are happy with it. You'll likely need a one-piece driveshaft made regardless of whether you go 2" or 3".
