I was making a joke there I don't think it's prudent to dump water on the hot brakes. They need to be cooled evenly and gradually.

A temperature actuated switch for an electric cooling fan is quite normal these days. Almost every front wheel drive car made has had this for several decades now.

A number of trucks and rwd cars have an idle speed increaser actuated by another temperature sensor. When the engine approaches overheating, the idle speed is increased to increase air flow through the radiator. This also goes back for several decades.

And a number of vehicles have a load reducer for high temperatures approaching overheat. This kicks off the a/c compressor, and sometimes even the sterio and other high electrical load components, reducing the heat generation of the engine.

I haven't seen a vehicle made since the 1940's or so that didn't have some sort of means of notifying the driver of an overheating condition. From the very common red light, to at the least a gauge showing temperatures.

They do that fer the big rig racing... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Also, I found this about water cooling the incoming air in brake air ducting... Yes, I know it's about racing but the application still applies... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />:D



I've also noticed that they use some aircraft grade titanium brake pad shields to keep the calipers from gitting heat soaked...kinda pricey at $90 fer an axle set of 4 shields though... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

So if one gits a set of aircraft grade titanium shields, I could fergit about spraying the calipers with the mist and put it directly in the air ducting. I guess the heat shields would have to be personally fabricated since I'm sure they don't make them fer the T-100 brake set. I guess I'll be out pricing some aircraft grade titanium next... Anyone have some spare SR-71 parts laying around I could borrow some pieces off of? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

As I progress more into this project(?) I guess I could also use it as a brake temp test system to see how the differing materials/components would be worthy of the upgrades.

These are kind of interesting. They claim to be dual coolers with a fan so I assume you could run your tranny fluid, coolant, or engine oil through them? Not a lot of detail so not sure what sets off the fan but the price isn't bad.

Coolers

The thermostats in your coolant and fan clutch already do exactly that. Engine-overheat is extremely uncommon on these trucks unless there are other problems, at which point the "id10t" light and/or temp guage lets you know you need to stop and do some diagnostics. The ECU also monitors temps and this info can be accessed via the OBDII system with a laptop or code reader if you want "real time" data.


Aftermarket tranny coolers have been proven to help keep the tranny temps under control and are almost a necessity on these trucks. Aftermarket temp guages are available and are not a bad idea to have to help keep an eye on things. And there are tranny coolers available with thermostats that bypass the cooler except when needed and/or turn on a fan as well.


200*F is a fairly low temperature for your brakes. Brake fade occurs when the fluid starts to boil. DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 fluids have dry boiling points of over 400, 450, and 500*F, respectively (but is reduced with water contamination). Aftermarket fluids can raise this further (and provide better resistance to water contamination) and things like slotted rotors can help keep the temps from getting as high in the first place. The rotors themselves are already "fans," and I don't think adding additional fans would help much except maybe at low speeds. And they would also put more load on the engine via the alternator, not to mention the extra weight.

I was reading that Raylin website. There appears to be a lot of scare tactics and misinformation going on there. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />


These are some interesting ideas, but I really don't see the need. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Some of it comes down to common sense and/or knowing how to use your vehicle safely and properly (not driving too fast, turning off OD when the tranny starts hunting, downshifting instead of overusing your brakes, etc.) to avoid some of these problems in the first place, and there are already products available to solve some of the other problems.

Per my last post, Eric has it right. High qual brake fluid will takd 400F with ease. Boiling kills fluid and causes brake fade. Check Speedway Magazine, about 6 months ago for details as it did a special on this. Bottom line is brake fade is caused by bad rotors, bad pads, a combo of them or bad fluid. Bleed your system and put in good stuff. Racer quality, not the cheap stuff.

Got for aftermarket tranny coolers and go big. Go for external mount oil filters and coolers as well. No need for readouts unless you and Tony Stewart are getting into it.

Yea, I like the ATE 200 fluid. I already had a bunch of it when I got my truck and it is a pretty good value compared to the Motul dot5 stuff at the store.