98 rodeo, 3.2, 4X4

While replacing the starter on the Rodeo I noticed that BOTH front C V outer boots were shot <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />. Is there a way short of pulling the axle ass'y to solve this prob? I have seen split boots for this application on other trucks, is there one available the Rodeo? I think I can do a pretty good job of cleaning out the joint and blowing out all of the solvent and re packing it on the truck if I can get the split boots. Any help will be appreciated.

The manuals I have looked require a complete disassembly of the steering and front end to remove the axle ass'y to do this job <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />, I think that may be beyond my level of expertice and patience at this point (after the starter).

Thanks,

Tom

http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/CVboots/? This is a shortcut to droping the whole front axle, much less complecated and time consuming.

My .02 is I'd rather take out the cv shaft and replace boots than to do a starter.


Get new boots inner and outer from Matt @independant4x.com
also get the plastic funnel install tool.


wash under front of truck and degrease everything first.

It's written up here but basically.

take loose the tierod before taking ball joints loose
jack vehicle up
jack stands
remove drive flange assy.
remove snap ring.
remove tie rod nut/joint!!!!!!!!!!!
then remove the inner boot
remove snap ring which holds the inner joint together.
remove upper ball joint nut and loosen upper control arm
remove upper arm from upper ball joint

you should be able to "lay the spindle down and forward"
pull axle and joint out of inner cv housing and then pull manipulate the inner joint and stub axle out of the spindle

worst case you'll need to break the lower ball joint loose---extra hands help here.

clean parts,use tool from matt,repack outer joint.

reinstall outside.
put inner boot over inner clean joint,fold boot back over itself.
install inner joint,snap ring pack with grease and install inner boot------this takes pactience--or wrench throwing.

replace tighten everything you loosen'd

!!!!!!!!!!!!!Last thing as well as first thing to do is the tierod!!!!!!!!!!

While you have the shaft out of the wheel hub, check the needle bearings in the back of the wheel hub to be sure they are okay and have grease. These are always overlooked when greasing wheel bearings and about the only time you can get to them is when changing a boot or shaft.

Changing a starter on a late model Rodeo/Amigo 4X4 is a pain for sure, I cheated and replaced the starters and or starter brushes in all mine when I changed the rear main seals. Starter comes right out when the transmission is not in the way, LOL!

I found I had to pull the lower ball joint and remove the knuckle, which made everything much easier to work on. Also on the rack and pinion models REMOVE THE TIEROD. The weight of the knuckle can ruin the beloved seal on the rack and ruin the rack. Its also easy to remove the tierod on the inboard end with the rack and pinion.
-Remove the boot
-flatten out the washer thats bent over
-unscrew the large part with 2 flat spots on it. Its not usually veyr tight, I've always been able to get it loose with a slip joint pliers.
-Done. You'll need to get a hose clamp to hold the inboard end of the boot on.

Also if you ever do need to drop the front differential housing, you don't need to drop the rack and pinion.

As far as new boots go, I found I could junkyard CV's for less than new boots. I swapped the whole CV at the inner as described in the link above.

-Mike