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Steering Box Seal #800994 03/28/07 06:51 PM
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 60
R
RalkClimber Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Anyone replaced the seal on a pitman arm? I have a puller and the seal kit is just $17. Beats spending $300 for a new box.


Ralk
'97 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L 105k Miles
Recent Replacements: Cam Shaft, Lifters, Push Rods, Distributor, Dist. Cap/button, Plugs, Oil Pump, Oil Sending Unit, Timing Chain/sprokets, and all associated gaskets.
Re: Steering Box Seal [Re: RalkClimber] #800995 03/28/07 06:54 PM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,768
BigJim Offline
Web Wheeler
Hmmmm I NEVER have had that problem.. Go ahead and do it! You need a new one anyway! Why not attempt to install a new seal? I see no reason for it to be impossible. If the bearing under it is worn and it leaks anyway.. well you tried.
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />


professional bovine relocation specialist
Re: Steering Box Seal [Re: BigJim] #800996 03/28/07 06:59 PM
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 60
R
RalkClimber Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
Ya that was kinda my point.. Why not just change the seal.. But if the bearing is bad.. then ya.. $300..

EDIT: Found this on replacement.. How does it sound?

To change the seal remove the pitman arm and then the c-clip with a pair of lock ring pliers. Put a drain under the box and start the truck for one second. The seal should blow out. If it doesn't, start the truck and turn steering wheel. The pressure should blow it out. Install new one and the lock ring and then the arm. Refill power steering fluid and you should be all set.

Last edited by RalkClimber; 03/28/07 07:02 PM.
Re: Steering Box Seal [Re: RalkClimber] #800997 03/28/07 08:31 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,087
BobRowe Offline
Body Damage is Cool
That sounds like a good procedure. The only thing I would add is to the end -- after you have topped off the power steering fluid, make sure you bleed the system. This is done in two steps:

(1) After filling the PS reservoir, and before starting the engine, turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly several times until you don't see any bubbles when looking into the filler tube on the reservoir with a flashlight. Disconnect the pitman arm from the drag link before doing this, otherwise you'll be fighting the friction between the tires and the ground. On a new pump or steering box, this may take up to 20 cycles, but it shouldn't take near as many on yours. When doing this, make sure to keep the reservoir topped off (but don't over fill).

(2) Then start the engine, and essentially do the same thing. You can hook the pitman arm back up to the drag link for this step, because the power steering will be helping you turn the wheels.


1977 CJ-7, fiberglass body, AMC 360 w/ headers, DUI ignition, Edelbrock intake and Holley 4150 carb, TF999, Dana 300, 4.56 gears lockers, York air comp, 4" susp lift, 2" body lift, BFG 35" M-T tires, Megashifter, AGR pump & box, REP8000 winch.

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