I'm new to the runner scene, but I have owned a 22-r pickup and I worked on engine a bit so I know a little bit about it. Anyways I'm in the market for a 86 - 89 runner with a 22-RE. I'm looking to spend 2K and make it a project truck for wheeling. I have a pro comp STG2 lift kit for it. My question is what is the best way to stop thieves from stealing it. My friend is pretty crazy at wiring alarms and has his ways of making it so you can't start it without the alarm remote. I just want to here any ideas. I was thinking of detachable steering wheel. Also I would like to know the easiest route of extracting some more power out of the little beast 22-RE. Sorry for the long post.

Splice a hidden switch to the fuel pump relay.
If it's stolen, you'll find it a few hundred yards away most likely. Thats my plan.

Thats what I was thinking also. What about performance upgrades for the engine. Is ebay a good place to find parts? I plan on getting 5.29 gears and a rear locker.

Gears will help out alot.
perhaps a cam from EB?.

'Bout all I got.

I've seen a few guys use a brake lock setup.

It is a module that you run your brake lines to and has a key on it for turning it on and off. You pump up the brakes, then turn the key, pressurizes the brake lines and locks up all four tires.

In theory, if they get the rig started they cannot get it to move, or, at least not very well. Slip the clutch, it dies. They might smoke your clutch in the process.

Depends on where you live. Here in rural Wisconsin you can leave it running while you go into the bank or the Post Office and feel certain that it will still be there when you come back out. We think of taking the keys out of the ignition and hiding them above the visor as a theft deterent. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> -- Matt

Alarms(regardless of what brand) can be defeated by the right theif, so you should have something else to go with it. I use 3-4 on mine, alarm, sep. ignition kill, along with the auto lock, and then I still remove the coil wire when I feel the need. This still isn't 100% theft proof(could be towed away), but thieves are lazy and aren't going to take the time to defeat all of them, they will move onto an easier target. This is all you really need to do, is to make yours harder to steel then the next guys.

As for power upgrade you have everything from headers to complete rebuild available, it all depends on your budget.

I had a truck stolen in 1998... A 1973 Chevy Custom Deluxe Stepside. Black on black, with the factory rust option, more primer than paint, a rotten wood bed floor, and the classic Chevy hood crease (anyone who had owned one knows what I am talking about). It had a removable steering wheel, removable radio, El Cheapo Realistic speakers mounted where the shoulder strap (optional) mount holes were located, kill switch for the coil, manual throw switch for the battery, wheel locks, and personalized plates... "73 SIDE".

It was hauled off on a flatbed in the middle of the night, right out of the barracks parking lot on Ft Eustis. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" /> The truck was recovered 2 weeks later, and I sold it to the junkyard for $50.

Why was it stolen?

I transplanted the engine from a 1969 Chevelle SS 396, punched it to 408, had a roller set, Gear Drive timing set, 11:1 compression, 1200 CFM carb, Tri-Y headers, Torker I intake, MSD Ignition, Muncie Rockcrusher 4-spd tranny, 3.73:1 posi 12-bolt, 1100 cca battery, and ran sub-10's in the 1/4.

Why did I sell it for $50?

When recovered, it had no battery, engine, seat, axle, tranny, dash, fuel system, ignition system, or rims... Stripped out, and sitting on blocks. The only parts recovered were the frame and rusty body, everything else was gone. It was found in the woods somewhere in Gloucester County, Va.

If they want it bad enough... It's gone in 60 seconds. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

Better yet, why not run a switch on the EFI fuse circuit in the fuse panel. That way, it will never get spark.

b/c every time you cut it out, the ECU will "forget" the air/fuel settings it has accumulated, and run on the factory defaults, which are not very efficient.