T.

I'll do my best to describe the area better. Open the hood. The master cylinder/booster is to the right, as would be the clutch master if your's has a stick. To the right of the clutch master is the hood hinge assembly. Between them, running horizontally from fendewell to fenderwell, is a ledge. It's a welding seam for the firewall and cowl assmemblies. That ledge represents the floor of the cowl. The zone between the cowl grille, which you can remove, and the ledge serves as your fresh air intake and where the winshield wiper crank assembly resides. I found my trouble just right of the hinge inside the cowl zone. I removed the hinge assmembly to have more space to work. Like I said earlier, my best look at this spot was from inside the truck with the windshield out. It was just accesible enough from this angle to perform the fix. BTW, I had pulled the driver's side fender first looking for a trouble spot and found none. Seeing how that's an easy thing to do, try that first. You may find a seam has opened up there. However, I doubt it. It's worth a look.

I wouldn't rely on fibergass or fiberglass resin to fix these problems. It's too rigid. The mating surface really needs to be toothed and super clean. Even then, it really doesn't love to be bonded directly to metal. Also, just pouring it down into the cowl zone doesn't take into account the dust and muck that has settled onto the sheet metal. I thoroughly sanded the rust and beyond, then cleaned it all with thinners before painting it with POR 15. Same for the seam inside the truck. I like McKanica aerosol seam sealer for these fixes. Wet, it has the consistency of toothpaste. It gives you time to work and is super sticky. It will seal things off like nothing else and is quite flexible when dry. It needs a solid 24 hours to dry.

I hope this was clearer. Sorry, no pics of this operation. Feel free to ask follow up questions. I'll do my best.

Rich