I like the shifter config as well ....I have never liked the use of twin sticks ....in some rigs it works well but others it just dont look right....so <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> to a well thought out build...

A lot of impressive engineering in there!!

A few questions:
1. How does the transmission and t-case installation/unistallation process look like with so little space between torsion bars crossmember and t-case. I remember, I had very little space there, when I tried to fit 4L65E with NP246 behind V8 on my SWB gen1. Putting tranny and t-case on and off was really painful.

2. How much does the shifter need to move sideways to be able to shift first t-case? Is there only 2 positions for sideways movement: first t-case high and low?

Thank you. I know you have done your fair share! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


Yeah, it is not very much fun. I was able to lift the rear of the transmission up as high as I could then lift the t-case in tail-housing first over the crossmember. Then I lifted the front of the cases up to meet the transmission. So at this point, the two shafts are angled upwards. Then I would slowly lower the transmission and rotate the transfer case assembly by hand via the rear yoke until the splines lined up and everything slid together. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />


The shifter need to move nearly its full range of motion side-to-side to shift the first case. I wanted this so that the separation between the two would be very distinct and not confusing when shifting. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

The first spin around the block revealed that the speedometer wasn't working. At the time, there were several reasons why this could be.

1) Electrical problem (wires not connected in correct order, blown fuse, bad sensor, etc)
2) The sensor was providing the wrong type of signal
3) The speedo gear housing wasn't clocked properly

I started with the first item on the list. I checked the wiring and verified that the ground was good and the sensor was getting a full 12v.

Scratching my head, I decide to check the third item on the list. I pulled the speedo sensor/gear and reinstalled it while making sure the gears were meshing properly. Another spin around the block confirmed that the speedo still wasn't working. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

At this point, I decided that the second item on the list was the culprit. This turned out to be the case. What little information I could find online suggested that the Jeep sensor was an eight pulse per rotation, square wave sensor. From what I could tell with an analog multimeter this was not the case. It appeared to be a sin wave sensor.

This is where I got the bright idea to check the stock Montero pulse sensor. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" /> It was clearly a four pulse per rotation with a square wave.

After reviewing all the speedometer gears, stems, and housings that I had, I realized that the threads on the Montero pulse generator were very similar to the threads on a stem I had from a cable driven NP231 speedo. I carefully threaded the two together and realized it could work! Unfortunately I needed an adapter key to mate the two shafts together. After measuring a stem from another part I had, I knew that I needed a double male .104 square adapter key. Most of you have probably read how I found that part. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Now that I had a complete sensor assembly, I installed it in the t-case and went for another test drive.

Success! The speedo was now working, but it was reading 15-20% too fast. I have still to fix this little problem, but today I received my SGI-5 Digital Dakota speedometer signal interface. This problem should be straightened out shortly. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Other than that, I still need to make a front driveshaft, and a skid plate to protect it all.

Can't wait to test it out on the trails! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Here's a few more pics of the cases in their new home <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />:

The clearance between the rear case and crossmember:

So far you are the Montero modding man of the year and I think you will hold on to it. With Cap510 pulling a very near second. If he had done the work on his own I would say you two were tied.

Very, very nice work! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Holy crap buddy! That is awesomeamazingoutstanding!

Too bad the market is so small, you could probably sell a kit!

<gremlin on knees, bowing down>

Now that I see what you have done to you GenII, I am starting to have dreams about a SAS with D60s front and back (5.29s) and a set of dual transfer case like yours sitting on 39s <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

You'd better buy a welder, and start learning how to fab, or take out a home mortgage loan. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Seriously! you CAN do it. We CAN teach you!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Holy crap - I DO wish I could tag along to GA. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

This friggen rocks - and not to poop on the other methods but I love how non-Frankenstein it all ended up. Just dont make me eat my words with a hot pink shifter boot and skull head shift nob <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

Hats off to this dude: