Maybe because it so basic, but I can't find a write up on removing the Oil Pan. Anyone have a link?

3.0 is leaking from the front of the oil pan. Is this a symptom of another problem or just age? A new short block was installed during the HG recall at 120k and I have about 350K now

It looks simple enough, but a lot of work just getting clearance.

You did not say, but what year/model rig do you have? Not that relevent, as it has to be an earlier rig if it has a 3.0.

I have an '89 4Runner with a 3VZE. Since I can't go to sleep, and the 10 month old just went to sleep, and the wife is asleep, I grabbed the FSM and looked through it. I could not find a specific procedure for just pulling the oil pan.

Assuming you have some type of IFS front end, there is not a lot of clearance to get the pan off with the motor installed and the IFS in place.

You might, and I do not know this for sure, be able to get the pan off by putting a hoist on the motor, disonnecting the exhaust, motor mounts, radiator hoses, removing the fan shrowd and fan, etc, etc, and then pivoting the motor/tranny on the tranny mount. Might, but that seems questionable, and a lot of work, and risky.

Other path is to pull the axles shafts, remove the sway bar, remove the front driveshaft, and drop the front differential assembly on the ground. Then you could easily pull the pan with the motor in place.

That's my opinion, for what it is worth.

The only way I've found to do this is to either undo the engine mounts and hoist the engine up to gain the clearance or drop the front diff to gain access. Its not a real easy job no matter how you slice it.

So I'm reading into this that when/if I swap my other 3.0 v6 into my truck this summer, I should pull the pan off and re-do the slightly leaky gasket...while I have the engine out! heh heh.
Scotty

Yes, reseal teh pan before you drop it in.

I find dropping the front diff is the easiest way to go, you only have the 3 bolts holding the diff in place. This shoiuld give you enough room to get the pan out, thouigh I would recommend removing it completely, being able to install the pan directly from below will make it easier and less likely to scrape off the gasket material on install.

The truth be known, if you do a SAS they are real easy to get off!!!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Thanks everyone,

If I had the time, I might attempt this, but I'm just going to take to a shop and have them do it.

I just hope that it is leaking from age and not some other problem.

A mechanic I talked to over the phone, suggested the problem might be the front crankshaft seal. How would I check if that might be the problem with out tearing up the front end. Would I be able to tell if the leak is CS seal and not the oil pan gasket without removing the timing cover?

I would tend to think the area with the moving part is the culprit.

To check and see if it is the crank shaft seal or cam shaft seal, unbolt the plastic timing belt cover at the top (under the spark plug wire routing attachments), pry it back and look into the timing belt and such with a flashlight. Look for the timing belt to be coated with oil. Another thing that works is to degrease the oil pan area under the engine and power wash it. Then have the engine running and inspect the underside or have an assistant rev up the rpm's and get the oil pressure up there for it to leak.

That may indicate your problem. Even my 3.0 looks like the oil pan is leaking but it is only oil buildup from the time my crank seals were leaking and for pouring oil when its windy and makes a mess (I never use a funnel).

Thanks,

I'll give that a try this weekend.