Anyone else ever used Pacesetter headers? Any big differences in performance? My rig is going to be an offroad toy that does not fall under any emissions requirements.. its a 20yr old vehicle thing here in Ontario.

Anyways, plan on going with the headers, to straight exhaust with a mild muffler.. dont want to sound like one of the Civic kids!

hey fleabag if you plan on doing any onroad driving the mto will still nail you if you dont have a cat on it. 20yrs old or not.
I was looking into getting a set of pacesetters for the 4.0ltr im putting in my 88. Looks like a good deal from the jegs catalog even with the shiping and brokerage fees. My concern was the super hot header being cooled super fast with water hitting them.

dont get the pacesetter.it is crap.there is a better one from doug thorley.part # 133-y.it is way better.

That part # is for a 2.0L motor. Anyone know if the header pattern of the 2.0L motor is the same as the 2.6L? Any idea of what these cost? There is no price list on Thorleys website.

yes the 2.0 and 2.6 use the same header(evenly spaced ports).i have the 133-y on my truck.you can call and order direct from thorley.it is way better quality than pacesetter.i dont remember how much i paid it was between 150 and 200 but it was worth it.plus the tri y design help low end power where the pacesetter design is mainly good for the higher rpm's.

I had Doug thorleys on my Pickup with weber, bs elim kit and no cats but I still managed to blow out one of the tubes from heat fatigue. I did like the seat of pants feel but there were constant leaks even with the doug Thorleys. What I have run for the past 5 years with better results is a montero cast iron manifold with precat that I gutted with the aid of a long screwdriver. 2 1/4" pipes and a turbo muffler which actually exits in front of the rear axle on my flat bed away from harm. If you are set on headers, It wouldn't matter which you went with as long as you make two mods: 1) Professional ceramic coating not spray can, and 2) cut out the 3 bolt flange and weld in a ball flange joint with grade 8 bolts to attach it to the rest of an exhaust.

Don't waste your money, as we all know there is only one way to get power out of a 2.6. I'll give you a hint it starts with a T

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

LRJ.. easy for you to say "Go Turbo" but Canada did not have the pleasure of having the Conquest or Starion vehicles. We cant just pop into our local parts yard and pull out the required parts. Ontario Canada in particular uses salt on the roads and you are lucky to find a non rusty vehicle from the 80's let alone anything else older!

Yes, it is always possible to have a machine shop weld on a turbo flange onto a manifold and install a turbo setup from a Volvo or some other Turbo vehicle, but thats a just bit too much work and money. If I can spend $500 for a header, pipes and a Weber carb for a bit more ooomph.. then I am happy. My rig has had its engine rebuilt but even still, at 180,000 Miles.. not KMs, I would rather transplant a 4.3 vortec then turbo this old beast!

I understand but Headers in now way add HP to the 2.6. In fact you might lose your low end torque <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

When I took my headers off and put the monty cast iron "header" on with the aforementioned secret but illegal modification, I noticed no gain or loss compared to the header alone. I think the main improvement over stock is losing the restrictive stock cat. I suspect a 2.5" high flow cat, if needed for legality, would yield similar good results. I should say that my motor already had the Weber 38 DGES when the changes were made.