Hey guys, need some help on deciding weather or not I should just put a re ring kit or,send the block in to the rebuilders?
This is my FIRST complete engine tear down, don't have a hole lot of money floating around either.I just finished striping the motor yesterday,down to bier block.When taking out the pistons I didn't have to ream the top edge, there was no top ring edge, pretty smooth actually,except for some surface rust from the head gasket going.Measured the rods end play with a feller gage & is within the standard measurement.Measured the crankshaft end play & its within standard measurement also.
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />When looking at the rod & crank bearings they all have the STD. printed on the back side.The bearing themselves do have some scoring & little pit marks?The crank is well so so... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />it's not perfect but does have slight scoring ,not really enough to leave the copper from a penny on it though .It kinda looks like there are some honing marks in the cylinders. Somebody might have put some rings in from before <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />?
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> This is where I'm at... so some good experience nohow & I've been there done that kind of stuff would be a big help <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />I'm always looking for a second opinion <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />. Thanks again guys. Oh ya the head has two cracks between both valves on #2, &#3 cyl. I would say the head is GARBAGE! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />

In my experience(and I've built 4 of these SOLID from the ground up), but I'd say rebuild your setup.. don't half-ass it..

These engines are bullet-proof, but your sounds like it needs a good freshing up. A new Marnel/AMC head is $350. Then any machine shop you like can do anything else..

These engines have indestructuble bottom ends. And they are cheap to rebuild.

A new 2.6 can be redone for under $1000. Simple as that. I'd say do it !!

Jason

I do have my other head from my other 2.6 ,was going to get it checked & resurfaced if need be .

I am one who is not opposed to just freshening these engines.
I generally find the cylinders in fine shape and cranks measure perfect. I rering the pistons and reshell the bearings and the engines go a long time again.
I choose rings that want a smooth bore, this excludes Hastings and chrome rings.
Save your money on machine work and spend it on factory seals and gaskets.
Do not surface the head unless it really needs it. By surfacing a head it may flatten the mating surface but now the cam bores are no longer straight.
I have also had problems with aftermarket oil pumps. I have experienced sticking oil pressure relief valves not allowing pressure at startup. If you are on a budget inspect your pump and reuse it if it is good. if you have not had a bearing go bad the pump is generally fine.

Now if your budget allows, do a full and proper rebuild. But use as many factory parts as you can. For Mitsu engines they are generally better than the aftermarket stuff. Heads for the 2.6 excluded.

Hey thanks "OLDCOLT" for your input . I'll measure the head off the '89 & make sure it's within tolerance, valve margin , change valve seals ,hope all will be ok.With the block, I,m wondering what would be the best to clean it with ,all oil passages & so on <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />Gasoline & some good small oil passage brushes, compressed air & lots of elbow grease.I heard (Simply Green) works to <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />?WD 40? I was going to use a rering kit with premium rings from 'POWER SEAL'. The crank has a groove where the rear seal is , any whey of maybe emery cloth & J.B. weld & a final light sanding? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> More input would be great from you guys . <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

There is a non jet head on ebay with a stripped exhaust stud cheap right now. The Balance shaft kit is not much more than a stock timing setup, I'd do that for sure. The ARP head stud kit is pricey at $90 but it gets rid of the second design flaw for longevity, the stretching head bolts. I also say rering with a good hone and spend the difference on a non jet head and bs elim kit.

Did it have an oil leak from the rear of the engine? If there's any chance that the rear main could start leaking, you'll hate yourself for not fixing it now...

How expensive is it to get the crank turned? That may be one area you want to go ahead and spend a dime or two. I don't know if I'd take the chance.

The head in my '89 is hydraulic w/o jet valves. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />Yes I'm putting the E-kit in, that's a fer sur.The rear seal groove is a thing to worry about <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />.Still wondering about that one <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />.

Cleaning, once the heavy grunge is off, I find something like Incredible Pink, and Castrols purple cleaner work well. These newer citrus degreasers can work well, some dishwash soaps are not bad either.
They fit into the soap and water category. Use brushes to get the galleys clean. If you have a pressure washer they are nice for rinse down.
The drying process is important and this is where WD 40 comes in. As you are drying the parts coat the machined surfaces with WD 40 or LPS1 when still wet with water to lift the water from the pores of the metal. This will give you short term rust protection till assembly. Plus todays high end piston rings do not want oil on them during installation so the WD 40 fits the bill to provide just enough protection of the bores till startup.

Rear seal, I stone the top off the groove in the crank and then move the new seal so it does not ride in that spot.
Where the 2.6 seal installs from the inside I have machined the seal area deeper to seat the seal outwards.
You might be able to get by with a spacer to move it inwards or just not seat it in it's bore. A bit of creativity should allow you to get it true to the bore but moved to suit.
I have only needed to move the rear seal on one engine but routinely need to move front ones.

I've rebuilt my fair share of engines and I've seen plenty of rear seal grooves on the cranks. The new rear main seal will be soft and flexible enough to seal it, even with the groove (was it leaking out before disassembly? was the old seal hardened?). I wouldn't try to use epoxy or anything on it though. If you really want to repair it, look for an actual rear main seal repair kit (many companies make them, I've used Pioneer ones but I could only find microsleeve in a quick google search of "Rear main seal repair sleeve"). It'll have a stainless steel cup that gets pressed over the original seal surface. It's very thin and can be broken or distorted easily so you may want to have a machine shop install it for you.
As for cleaning, most machine shops will hot-tank (cast iron) or cold tank (aluminum) components for you for a cheap fee then just use dish soap and water with bottle brushes to do the final cleaning before assembly (compressed air to dry and blow out bolt holes and passages then wd-40 on any machined surfaces).