<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />I see ,this is making more sense to my brain know .Like "OLDCOLT" said use a spacer or some sort ,how about taking an old seal cut the access off & use the backing of the seal for my spacer?That should work for spacing out the seal in it's bore & off set it on the crank...ya no ya? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />Hey "OLDCOLT" checked out your website COOL projects & adventures ,you deferentially have the knowledge <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />I salute you! Thanks for you guys giving me your wisdom & secret knowledge,this makes me feel more confident of myself trying to do my first 2.6 overhaul <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />.Any ideas on a good straight edge for checking my head? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

The seal does not need to move much, just enough so the lip can not fall in the existing groove which will cause it to not float free to the surface as the crank moves about. .050 to .065 is plenty. The face of the old seal might be about right.
The 2.6 heads are not prone to warping, they do have an issue with the head bolt settling in which reduces the torque on them generating gasket failures. Re torque them periodically, use every other oil change which may be too often but I have had failure free results. If the heads have been tormented during there life they can crack in a variety of places. The earlier alloys are tough to weld but this is one place the aftermarket heads shine. I have not even considered trying to fix a damaged head since the Marnel heads came to market.
A nice carpenters level can provide a straight edge.

Thank you for the kind words, I have learned allot over the years an lately to offer respect for those that passed on much knowledge to me I like to share mine with those that want to receive it. The time I have spent learning does no good for others if I can not share it. Thanks to these forums I can, plus I still get to learn more too.

So just a good straight level OK. Well better get my <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> in gear ,the motor is sitting in the shed waiting to be cleaned & order some parts.Thanks COLT & every one that put in there input <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />If you guys think of anything else I should watch out for or any advice on these 2.6's I'm open <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Got the motor cleaned up & the cylinders honed. Got a question on the cylinders though , after the truck was stting for half a year RUST film formed in the cylinders <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />Most of it came out from honing , but there is still some traces of the ring marks after honing .Would this be a big problem to worry about, or just suck it up & live with? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />

Use some Phosphoric acid to clean that rust out. An autobody prep solution is a good source for the acid.

Well thanks once again "OLDCOLT" ,see little things like the acid I would never thought about <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />Opened the hood on my '89 & started digging in on the tear down . When I took the valve cover off I noticed that this head is with ADJUSTABLE valves & without jet valves <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> I guess it's been a while since I had the cover off ,3 years to be exact.I would of thought it would have been HYDRAULIC valves for a '89.The head must of been changed on the last rebuild, before I purchased it back in 2002 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />.Which is better anyway...HYDRAULIC or ADJUSTABLE?
Pulled the head off the '89,the motor had been bored with 50mm pistons.the head looks ok ,just some carbon build up clean on the top side where the rockers are though <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />.I think I should change the valve guides since I'm this far .& check the valve margins,valves in the seats ,cam for clearances & such <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />.Hope all will be good <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />?
"IT"S NOT HOW IT BREAKS DOWN, THATS THE PROBLEM ...IT'S HOW YOU FIX THE PROBLEM" <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Check the guides first, they last quite a long time on these engines.
You can go either way with hydraulic or mechanical lash. Keep in mind the valves are different length between the two.
I have swapped between the two though.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />Did some more cleaning on parts yesterday,did the intake.Lot's of carbon build up to the EGR valve through the piping that goes to the head.When disconnecting the hose going to the box on the driver's side wheelwell it was plugged full of carbon powder & the pipe to it on the EGR <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />.Did lot"s of gasket scraping ,baked on ,time consuming makes you sick <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />
Cleaned up the exhaust manifold,looked at old gasket showed exhaust leaked on the front & rear ports <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />.Checked the manifold for plain & <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> it's warped,about 1/8th.in.on each end.Now what? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
Took the rings off of #1 piston & con. rod & inspect <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" /> the piston pin pivot seams a little tight to me ,is this normal? The piston floats side to side on the pin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Did some more cleaning of parts ,at the end of the day I went back to the #1 piston that was bugging me. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />Taking a real close look I noticed carbon compacted in one of the oil feeds by the pin. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />Picked the carbon out of the hole & flushed it with WD 40.I'm assuming that all the carbon that was on the pistons & head chambers got washed out the exhaust & some down the sides of the pistons when the head gasket blew.
Why would this piston be a little tighter to pivot on the connecting rod <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />?Thanks

That piston might have gotten a bit hotter than the rest. Is the color of the underside darker than the others.

The exhaust can be cut on a milling machine or a belt sander to straighten it.