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Re: Replace the TB - Recommend Wrecking Yard Part First
[Re: Darrell]
#806337
10/03/11 11:40 PM
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 13,649
Web Wheeler
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I searched car-part.com and found a bunch, 4 on the pacific coast, 3 in the sw, a bunch country wide. Try it with your zip code to get a distance sorted list, or sort by price.
Not responsible for advice not taken...
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Re: Replace the TB - Recommend Wrecking Yard Part First
[Re: fasteddy]
#806338
10/03/11 11:42 PM
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 37
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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I searched car-part.com and found a bunch, 4 on the pacific coast, 3 in the sw, a bunch country wide. Try it with your zip code to get a distance sorted list, or sort by price. Thanks! I am an idiot! I just had my state and zip. I got it. Thanks again!
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Re: Replace the TB - Recommend Wrecking Yard Part First
[Re: Darrell]
#806339
10/04/11 03:13 AM
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 13,649
Web Wheeler
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Aren't we all? Which one are you? Darrell, his brother Darrell, or his other brother Darrell? I have learned very little by not asking questions. I have learned almost nothing from people who agree with me. I have learned absolutely nothing without at least a little pain...
Not responsible for advice not taken...
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Re: Replace the TB - Recommend Wrecking Yard Part First
[Re: fasteddy]
#806340
10/21/11 11:19 PM
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 37
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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So I got a salvage throttle body and sure enough that did the trick. I now can control the idle. I still think it is mysterious that nothing I tried could identify a vacuum leak. Oh well.
Has anyone followed the procedure to set the accelerator cable tension. I have a chiltons type manual (I couldn't find it in the FSM I downloaded here) that has you get the engine normal operating temp, turn the key on for 15 sec and then place a feeler gauge ( I can't remember the thickness) between the SAS and the throttle and then tighten the throttle cable tension to that. I followed this and either I am doing something wrong or its whacked! If you do this the throttle never touches the SAS and the idle speed is elevated and not controlled by anything.
I am still having issues with the timing. Now that I can control the idle speed I set the timing. With the timing set the engine pings severely. So I had to set the timing by driving it and adjusting the timing until I did not get any pinging. Something is still not right. The engine is sluggish and does not have the power I know it used to.
I'm stuck. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />
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Re: Replace the TB - Recommend Wrecking Yard Part First
[Re: Darrell]
#806341
10/23/11 01:30 AM
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 13,649
Web Wheeler
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Trash the Chiltons. It's in the fsm, either in the fuel section, or maybe engine control.
I just set the throttle cable just short of tight with a warmed up engine at normal idle. The procedure you are trying to do is to set the tps so the idle switch is set right, and you set it AFTER you set the mechanical base idle.
Are you grounding the timing connector before setting the timing?
Not responsible for advice not taken...
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Re: Replace the TB - Recommend Wrecking Yard Part First
[Re: fasteddy]
#806342
10/23/11 06:29 AM
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 37
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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Trash the Chiltons. It's in the fsm, either in the fuel section, or maybe engine control.
I just set the throttle cable just short of tight with a warmed up engine at normal idle. The procedure you are trying to do is to set the tps so the idle switch is set right, and you set it AFTER you set the mechanical base idle.
Are you grounding the timing connector before setting the timing? Hi fasteddy, I followed the TPS protocol in the FSM. The Chiltons had the same TPS protocol. This was different. I will look again in the FSM but when I looked I could find a reference to it in the index for the fuel chapter but the pages its on are not included....at least I could not find them. I ended up doing what you said. It seems like it is running the way it should as far as idle speed. I did ground the timing and follow the FSM protocol when setting the timing. Today I checked to see that the #1 cylinder is at TDC and the distributor "marks" on the shaft and case are all lined up. What I found hurt my head. The when the #1 is at TDC the marks on the distributor are not lined up. I think they are 180 deg off. I did not change it because I wanted to get some input. I thought that if the timing was off that much an engine would not start. So what is the deal. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Can my distributor be 180 deg off and have it run. It does not miss or idle rough.
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