I have an 88 3.0 with a coolant leak somewhere around the thermostat. I can't tell exactly where its coming from. I'm 99% sure it's not from the hose. Any ideas? Waterpump?
Thanks,

It most likely is your water pump. The spot you describe is where the weep hole is located.

I just finished replacing my water pump a couple of hours ago. No more leak. I had just replaced my thermostat a week ago and then out of no where the pump goes out. Almost 200k on it so I'm not surprised. Have fun. Oh since your going in any way might as well replace timing belt and idler bearings if they have some miles on them.

What other stuff did you replace when you where in there? I want to do this once and swap everything I can. I have a timing belt and an oil pump. Who sells a good water pump. engnbuilder? As much info as you dare please! Thanks again!

Just finished doing a rebuild on my '89 3.0.

As far as the oil pump in concerned, if you feel like pulling it out, which means pulling the pan, there is a detailed inspection procedure in the FSM that will tell you if it is worn or not. Mine had 125k on it and was fine, just cleaned it up and put a new front main seal in it.

I replaced the water pump, idler pully assembly (which includes the top coolant pipe, goes into the intake manifold), the tensioner assembly, and the belt (of course).

The belt, tensioner, and idler pulley assembly all came as a kit from Gates. I picked it up on RockAuto.com for $120, #TCK240.

The water pump I used was a Beck Arnley pump, #1312083. It was the exact same pump that I took off of the motor, same casting numbers, found that out after I got the replacement and was comparing the two. My motor had the timing belt replaced at some point, so, I am assuming the pump as aftermarket as well.

On this board, and others, it has been advised that you only use a factory Toyota thermostat. I took that advise and purchased one at the dealer, just to be sure. The 3.0 does not have the same issue as the 22R (or is it E's, not sure) where the thermostat needs a little piggy-back, mini-me thermostat in the flange. It looked like the one I had the guy pull at Kragen, but, what the hell, keeps the dealer in business.....

One thing I found in my investigations for this rebuld is that there appears to be some issue with how much you torque the crank bolt that holds on the balancer and the lower timing chain sprocket. If you look on Yotatech.com you will find many posts from people who had a timing belt service and then the bolt loosened up / fell out and then destroyed the pulleys and the snout of the crank, which is pretty much a bad thing, very bad.

I found this out after I had torqued it to 185 ft-lbs, as my '89 FSM says. The information I found said that Toyota changed the torque value to 217 ft-lbs and labeled the crank bolt as one time use, have to replace. I took the middle road, re-used the bolt, but went back in and re-torqued it to 217 ft-lbs and used lock-tite on it. Not sure how much a new bolt costs, but, it is definitly a Toyota only bolt, it has big flange on it, looks industrial strength.

So far, no issues, but, time will tell....

OK, I went to rockauto.com and looked for the tentioner and idler (I already have the belt). They list a Dayco brand. Anyone ever heard of Dayco? I called Rockauto and talked to a guy that couldn't or wouldn't tell me the country of orgin. I called and talked to someone at engnblr that told me 99% or the time nothing is wrong with the tentioner and idler. And it's a waste of time and money to replace them. But I had to tell him about 5 times I was talking about the 3.0 . Each time I told him he said,"oh?" like he hadn't heard that before. I didn't get a lot of confidence from either conversation.
Where can I get an aisin or other good quality tentioner and idler without going to the dealer?

Thanks for your time and help

Only heard of Dayco belts which I consider to be good quality but never heard of Dayco tensioners etc. Is it the same company I wonder.

Yeah, same company. I googled em. So what I'd like to know is should I get the tentioner & idler for $125. I really do have other things I need to spend $125 on. Like new shocks and and BJ spacers.

Thanks for you help! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I thought the crank bolt issues were with the 5vzfe...not the 3vze. I re-used my crank bolt, and just hammered it in there with the impact. So far so good.

I don't have specific experience with Toyota Tensioner and idler but on the GM ones that I have worked on I've been told to check the bearing on the idler i.e. check for smooth running and no wobble/play. On the the tensioner there should be sufficient tension and no side ways play which would cause the idler to be angled to the other pullys.
If all checks out why change? But like anything that looks good today may crap out tomorrow.