uh, like you said, use acetone to clean. did you stick the bolts in an old cover or a piece of cardboard to keep track of the TC cover bolts? theyre almost all diff. lengths. id check that out too.

Before I start to see what I can do about patching up these leaks, is there any more Ideas that I can look into before I begin this weekend? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Well, I hope I solved the problem with the Timing Chain cover. But I think I have another leak of some sort in the back of the engine bay. Today as I was running the motor to get a better clue as to where the oil was comming from I notticed that there were spots on the ground not caused by the cover. Previously I thought the spots were caused by the oil tripping from the cover area, and as I was going down the road the wind would push the oil backwards causing other spots to apear.

Now today I was just letting the truck run to find the oil leaks, I wasn't driving it so there was no wind to diverge the oil backwards from the cover area. These leaks are totally separate. Nearest I could tell was that the leak is comming from a connection in the clutch line, I checked the clutch reserve and it was ALMOST dry. I put some more fluid in and hit the clutch acouple of time but nothing happend, of course the truck was not running. Does the clutch need power of some sort from the motor to do its job? It doesn't appear to be comming from anything else. It is not gas, but the whole passenger side of the: firewall, bell houseing, diff, trans has some kind of fluid on it. Anybody else have any suggestions on what to look for? or what else may be causing the problem? It doesn't appear to be comming from the valve cover or the head. Could the EGR block off pate at the back of the head carry any oil in that? I thought that it was just recirculated exhaust gas.

Thanx for the suggestions,
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />GOI

Clutch system is strictly hydraulic, no vacuum boost or power assist.

Could oil leak from the EGR Plate at the back of the head or from the head to intake? I thought It was strickly exhaust recirculation. Also, would a gas leak be horible from the system?

No oil near the EGR plate or intake. might wanna check the valve cover gasket tho

I took it to the carwash and power washed everything. It was warm when I got back so I popped the hood and started looking around the back. And sure enough the valve cover gasket was the culprit. It was sparying out when it squished togeather, making everything an oily mess.

Anyone know how to ajust the idel? It's ideling rough at 500 rpm, it used to be at 1000 rpm. As it warms up it drops, and I have to give it alittle gas to stay running.

Thanks,
GOI <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

At what point did it change?

Generally, if your idle changes suddenly on an EFI system, you have a sensor that went bad or got disconnected. I'd start by pulling the computer codes to see if they tell ya anything.

Next step would be pulling all the connectors & check for water, pressure washers can put water in strange places.

Dave

It had the rough idel before the power wash. I adjusted the idel back to 1000 rpm. Today on my way to school I started the truck and it ideled at 1000. I went 2 lights down and it was at 1500. I'm thinking that my water temp sensor went bad. It prabably won't run it it's cold, but it was on the verge of dying when it warmed up on my way to the power washer.

Any Ideas? How do you test the water temp sensor?
Thanks for the thoughts,
GOI <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Like I said, start by pulling any computer codes. If the water temp sensor is bad, there's a chance the computer knows about it.
The FSM will have the test procedure, basically the sensor should have specific ohm readings at at specific temps. Keep in mind that there are likely several temp sensors.

Dave