You can get the bushings from the dealer for $5.xx each, you need 2.

Takes all of 10 minutes to put them in. Mine were missing when I bought the Red Monty. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

I had to remove 2 of the 3 bolts holding the upper bracket in place and loosen the 3rd one. I was then able to swing it upwards while pushed the steering linkage down. I could then replace both bushings. From there, simply reassembled & re-tighten everything to the proper torque values. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> Take her for a spin and then recheck the bolts (at least I did) since this is a critical part of your vehicle and if it fails... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

You can also change them only taking the one big nut off the bottom. You have to turn the wheel all the way one way, I forgot which way. It is an easy job.

Since we're talking about idler arms, it looks like I may need to replace my pittman and idler arms on my GEN II. I went over to Kaufman Tire for an alignment, but they're telling me the idler and pittman need to be replaced. I wasn't sure about it, and pretty much assume all these guys are out to rip me off, but I asked them to put it back on the lift and show me...it looks like there is some play. Sooo, how difficult is it to replace the pittman + idler. It doesn't LOOK tough, but what the heck do I know. Also, should I only go with Mitsu OEM parts? RockAuto has some MOOG items (no OEM listed) that are much less expensive. Just found the OEM idler for $75 and OEM pittman for $110 on https://www.mitsubishiparts.com.

I just replaced the ones on my Gen I with Carquest/Moog parts. It seems to be working just fine to me. I'll post some prices once I clean out the truck this afternoon and get the receipts together.

I replaced my Pitman with a Moog part also from Rock Auto at the same time I replaced the steering gear. So far the Moog is working just great and would definitely recommend it vs. the Mitsu OEM part.

Cotter pin removal was fairly easy, only truly difficult part was getting the castle nut off. If you have a breaker bar that'll help. Best to spray penetrating oil all over castle nut (if not greased already) and let set a few days before attempting the swap out.

This is also the perfect time to align your steering wheel if it's off-center.

MI-Mitsu

I just ordered a pitmann arm and complete idler arm assy. from Moog. The idler arm is an "improved" design, and I'll report back when I see it Tuesday...

That's the same one I put on stockraider's truck before I sold it to him. I honestly didn't see any difference between the old and new. I would think they'd have a grease fitting on an 'improved' one. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

I just defect it out at work <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Is anybody running a hydraulic steering damper? I noted a marked decrease in wear on the cone bushing on my old FJ55 steering idler when I put on a damper that had more resistance than an unconnected bicycle pump. At first glance, it does not seem as though the damper would have much effect, since the shock loads go from the steering arm on the hub to the tie rod to the idler/pitmann arm BEFORE the damper (connected to the center link and frame) gets in the act, but the effect was very easy to spot. I used to have to take up the cone slack (wear) about every 60 days pre-damper, and it was still pretty tight after a year with the damper.

So what's the verdict? Anybody running one?