Hi guys,

I'm new to the board and just wanted to say hello. I'm in the position of potentially buying a good condition 1990 Montero. I will be examining the truck later this week, and was wondering if you guys could give me some tips and advice on what to look for regarding condition and mechanicals on the vehicle.

Also, what quetsions should I be asking this person?

Thanks in advance, I hope this goes well and then the real questions will start flying on what I can do with this thing.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I'd say like on any car the price is going to dictate how much you can complain and haggle.
I just picked up an '89 Raider last week or two ago for $800. I didn't figure at that price I could complain about much because the engine compartment is immaculate and the interior is perfect.
My biggest thing I'd check for is rust. Surface rust will be obvious and usually really easy to fix, but check the underbody. I've seen a lot of cars that appear nice that are ROTTEN out.
As far as anything in particular on these I'm no expert right now. I'd just check the basics...brakes...suspension...handling...startup/idle/driviability.
I'm sure other people are going to ask this so which engine is in it? Mileage? etc...

(Just my 2cents) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

What model is it? SWB(Short Wheel Base) or LWB(Long Wheel Base)... LS or RS? Just wondering <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Welcome. Here's what I'd check...

VALVE GUIDE SEALS: When starting from a cold engine (i.e. early in the morning) does it smoke oily smelling smoke? How about letting it idle for 5 minutes then reving it. If either produces excessive smoke, then you might have a problem with this. It's one of the most common problems. When worn, they allow oil to leak past which then burns in your combustion chamber and clogs your catalytic converter.

AUTO TRANNY condition: It should be flushed regularly and rebuilds are probably at +250K miles.

TIMING BELT: Should be done at least every 90K and even better every 60K.

WATER PUMP: When was it last changed? IIRC it should be done every 100k miles. I prefer to do it with my timing belt changes.

RADIATOR: Clear fins inside or off white calcium/mineral deposits. If calcified, then consider the added cost of having it "Rodded". Ranges from $75-150 depending on where you are.

SUSPENSION: Coils wear with age. So do the front torsion bars. Unfortunately I don't have any specs to give you an idea how worn they might be.

FLUIDS: Although they may simply change them just before you look at the vehicle, check them anyway.

MAINTENANCE RECORDS: The more the merrier.

That's all I can think of. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Don't forget the crank pulley bolt.

Check the suspension! If it's like mine, it doesn't matter how cheap it is, the suspension/steering (front end) is not cheap/easy to fix.

You could also check, the switches and buttons for the hazard lights, rear window spray, rear gate, and rear anti fog. Aswell as window seals and door seals, it's good to know if your going to get wet when it rains. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> That's NO fun. My 2 cents <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Yea I checked those out AFTER I got home! Wipers don't work....I think the motor is just too weak cause it started up like a 1/4" then sat there trying to pull further and then stopped. Rear doesnt even move.

I just bought a 91 LWB and went the through the same process you are going through. Here's what I discovered with regards to rust:

1. Check the front wheel wells, espcially the inside panel that it shares with the cabain area near the top.
2. Front fenders where the mud flaps attach - they collect wet mudd that rusts the metal.
3. Rear mudd flap brackets- ditto- wet mud collects between the rubber and the metal bracket. Brackets are no longer available.
4. Open the tail gate door and check the door sill- some people have reported rust in that area where water collects.
5. Front and rear bumper substructures- just sandblasted mine. Not necessary if you're adding a new bumper.
6. If your car is coming from a winter climate, snow and salt collect inside the rear bumper rubber corners- which are like scoops. You'll want to see how bad it is there, but this can usually be sandblasted away.

Hope that helps