Has anyone had to replace their factory towing harness connector? My 99's connector pretty badly corroded (it started life down in ANC). Went to the dealer, thinking this was a splice-in pigtail replacement, but NO-O-O-- they want $191 bucks. I said ' <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" /> that'; scared the poor gal at the counter (I'm breakin' in another noob <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />)

I'll probably be tearing into the loom to see what there is to see, but just wondering if anyone has replaced theirs.

Closest 3rd gen around here is about 200 miles away for salvage. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

Crossing fingers in hopes boat trailer fix is possible.

Anyone mess with theirs, or have an ECP to see if this is a splice-in replacement, or whole harness? Thanks!

You can get a new connector w/pigtail from just about anywhere. Walmart and the like, or any boat, rv, or trailer shop.

Best way to do it would be to cut the old connector off, splice in the new one, solder the wires together, and put some heat shrink tubing around it.

I'm not sure how the factory setup goes, but why not just get the Hoppy wiring harness w/converter? They're only like 40 bucks at Napa.

http://www.trailerwiring.com/cgi-bin/view.cgi?part=43415

You'll probably be able to pull out the factory one while you're in there, which may not be more than the Hoppy adapter with a Toyota sticker slapped on it.

Thanks for the link; I believe I have to take a look at compatibility; IIRC, there's a tow fuse in these newer rigs, where the older trucks didn't have 'em, even with a factory package. It definitely looks like a good candidate for my older trucks. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

Yeah Adam, that fix is the plan B; gotta recall I used to be an avionics troop, so splicing in that area is a no-go.
Got the rest of the goods. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I've got a little time tomorrow to see just how Yota did the hardware mount to keep the connector stationary. I rather like that; would like to try and keep it if 1sttoyotaparts tells me there's no pigtail replacement on their end.

I appreciate the input! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Edit: 1sttoyotaparts says the same thing; moolamoola. Off to NAPA I go.

I bought the Hidden Hitch brand of this same harness for $26.95 from Performance Products.

ONE PROBLEM... I just bought a brand new trailer that has 2 tail lights, a license plate light, and 2 marker lights on each side and I keep blowing the fuse under the hood on the running light circuit. I end up with no running lights at all... just the brake lights and blinkers.

Is there a way to safely increase the capacity of my system or do I have to take out the side marker lights? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Thanks!
~Dave

I think I'd start by plugging whatever you're towing into another rig and make sure THAT wiring is okay FIRST.

Just cuz the trailer is new doesn't mean it's good to go.
Is it truly showroom new, or just 'new' to you?

Truly showroom new!

I will try it out on someone else's vehicle and see if it'll blow their fuse.

About all I can do is experiment... I'm no electrical engineer!

Thanks,
~Dave

Cool; if it's the trailer, then at least you have some recourse at this point.

No one at the trailer shop has a rig that's wired up? That would be a two-in-one stop in my book. Ask.

I do have a couple of thoughts seeing that it's a new trailer... maybe one of the light fixtures has an internal short or maybe one of the wires got pinched or cut during assembly, but have my doubts that it's the trailer causing the problem.

With a new fuse in place, I can turn on the lights and everything works perfectly on the trailer... all the running lights, brake lights/directionals. It seems that it takes some time for the fuse to blow and is probably due to using the brakes and blinkers while in traffic.

A couple friends have told me to just switch the 10-amp fuse to a 15-amp and see what happens. I'm just concerned about burning something up in the 4Runner's wiring.

Any thoughts about that?

Thanks,
~Dave

Fuses are meant to be safety devices. Quit listening to your friends' redneck stuff, because I wouldn't see any of them paying for your rig getting burned up. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />

IF it messes up the trailer, then you void the warranty, more than likely. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

While it's working, do all the lights on the RUNNER work?

1) It's easy to rule out the trailer; take it back and let 'em look at it. Describe as you did in your last post.

2) Defective/Incompatible tow kit. If the truck never had a tow kit on it, the kit would've needed a converter to match up to the truck.

3) Defective install.