I did a year ago, and they sent me a new tensioner. Check the grooves out on the guides. They haven't worn through the rubber coating, but the chain is definetly making constant contact. Is it normal? I don't know if the chain is supposed to make constant contact. I thought they were supposed to keep the chain from hitting the timing cover during start and/or rapid acceleration, not constantly.

re. the torque on the tensioner...I don't think Haynes or other manuals give a number...including the factory manual. If it get over-torqued it can take a set and re-torquing will do no good (I believe the torque spec comes from eb's experience/testing)

Compare the dual chain guides with the stock guides. I think the only difference was the width to allow for the dual chain.
They sent you a new timing chain cover right?

I retorqued the tensioner to the said 9 ft lbs with my freshly calibrated torque wrench. The bolts didn't seem very tight. Hopefully the fix can be that simple. If I remember right, eb was helping me well over a year ago, and I do remember something about over torqing those bolts, pinching the piston.
The old guides where of the crappy plastic variety, and in a million pieces laying in the bottom of my oil pan. I needed a new cover because the chain had eaten into the old one. These "new" ones are heavy duty steel bad boys. I'm going back together with whole thing, hopefully 5th time will be the charm.

Did you buy the dual row timing chain kit or the dual row timing chain conversion kit?
If you are going from single row to dual row, you need the conversion kit. The conversion kit comes with the timing chain cover, water pump and oil pump that will accept the dual row chain and gears.

Yeah MQM, I got the whole kit from lcengineering, oil pump, water pump, timing cover, everything. I went alittle over board with everything. I ended up putting in a new radiator and distributor as well. I've got more money tied up in the front end than what the truck is worth! Not really, but close.

>>>*K....LC has a good kit, so that isn't the concern. It sounds like you have the torque down, we suggest 12 ft lbs for a maximum, we found that at 15 ft lbs the tiny little tensioner housing starts to distort and we get crabby emails about "defects" but you have it right, that isn't it.

The bolt groove in the passenger side guide is so it can be slightly adjusted in/out, some suppliers do the same to the driver's side guides on the 83-84 so the steel guide can be used, too short, trust me there...don't do that.

Chain breaks in upset conditions, then we get crabby phone calls....*LOL**...The chain can still break if it catches, the steel piece is stronger, not foolproof and yep it can be broken.

*I wish I had it in my hands, I could diagnose better, but the wear looks normal to me. Bolt a new set of guides on while you are in there, they are cheap...(Some suppliers hate me for saying that, about $35/pair for the duals)

My diagnosis? You are going to hate this: The noise is NOT from the chain assembly, check the oil pump gears to see if they are reversed, check to see if something is rubbing on the dampner outside, water pumnp? Maybe the clutch fan if equipped?

Long list of possibles. Put the chain back on and run her, looks OK to me.....*EB

Thanks everyone for the input tonight. I'm going to knock off for the night. One little tid bit I left out, I only have maybe at the very most 50 miles on it since the conversion, about a year or two years ago. Is that wear normal after 50 miles? I'll check the oil pump in the morning, thanks eb.