I know some people on here have used the ball joint seperator tool that has 3 finger-like prongs (not the pickle fork type) on a gen II montero to seperate ball joints and tie rod ends in order to pull out the cv axles to replace the cv boots. I bought one from napa for $13.00 Here are the specs: it has 19mm jaw opening and 38 mm maximum opening.

here is my problem: with the above mentioned tool, I can't seem to make it fit all the way on the lower ball joint. it seems that the ball joint is too big for the tool. I currently have a welder friend going to widen the tool and strengthen the prongs so they don't break, but I was wondering if anyone has found a tool like this that is made big enough to fit the lower ball joints on the gen II montero? if so, where did you find it, how much, etc.?

You can use 2 hammers if there is room to get a good swing at the side of the knuckle. Use a sledge to hold against the back side of the knuckle and add additional mass to keep the joint from moving. Then use a large ball peen hammer to rap on the other side of the knuckle. This will usually pop the tapered joint loose.

ok, can someone give me some specifics on how to do this without messing up the grease cups or mushrooming the threads on the stud? I know there was a write up that someone did when they replaced their cv boot on their gen II, i just can't find it.

the tool i am talking about looks like this:
ball joint seperator

I am having trouble picturing what you are describing. the stud of the ball joint goes through a hole in the steering knuckle. how does hitting the knuckle break it loose?

Don't hit the ball joint. Hit the control arm on the side where the ball joint goes through it. The concussion (second time today I've used that word on here) will shock the joint into breaking free. Having the separater applying pressure at the same time helps.

EDIT: I meant to say hit the knuckle on the side where the ball joint goes through it.

let me get this right, if I want to remove the steering knuckle so I can pull my cv axle out to replace a boot, wouldn't I leave the ball joint attached to the control arm and remove the knuckle from the ball joint via removing the stud with the castle nut from the steering knuckle?

Sorry...see above edit.

The pickle fork tools were never made to actually force the ball joint loose (they will eat up the boot trying). They just preload the joint stud in the release direction to make it pop loose a little easier when you do the double hammer trick, which is so elegantly and correctly detailed above. The deep Cee tools with the pressure screw that hook on the eye and press the joint stud do the same, and sometimes will take the joint apart alone. I've seen long arm hinged tools with pressure screws, just another way to apply the pry force. The most reliable is the double hammer whammy. It springs the stud eye slightly, and the tapered stud is actually squeezed out of the hole, loosened by the shock. I've also used a sledge for a deadman stop, and whangoed the eye with an air hammer with a flat body bit in it, and rattled it loose. Got to hit it like you're mad at it...