speaking of boiling at lower pressures -- water at -30" -- is it hot, or does it boil cold?
The temperature things boil at is a function of the pressure they are under. Water at sea level boils at 212 degrees because that's how hot it has to be to overcome the pressure on it. Lower the pressure and you lower the boiling temperature.
For fun, I can show you how to boil water with an ice-cube as a science experiment. Take a glass soda bottle with a good cap, fill it about 1/4 full of water, and put it in a pot of water on the stove. Now bring it to a boil so the water inside the soda bottle is boiling. Let it boil for a minute, so the bottle is well filled with steam. Turn the heat off and immediately cap the bottle. Take it out and let it cool down. This creates a vacuum inside the bottle. Now rub the top half of the bottle with an ice-cube. This really creates a vacuum inside the bottle, and the water in it starts boiling because of the vacuum.
yeah, I'm really curious about this now. it's been bothering me since I retro'd it. I'd like to think I'd have burned it up by now were it not getting the lubrication it needs, though, but I feel better with the oil & refridge separate, I think. don't know why; I'm just a stickler for detail and doing things properly.
I've done several conversions in the past without dumping and switching the oils, and a friend has done roughly a hundred of them over the years without incident. It really was on a lark that since I had the opportunity to do an oil swap that I did it. I probably wouldn't bother on a car that I was merely changing the refrigerant on. But if I was removing components, I would.
In the junkyards you will find many electrical solenoids and such that can be fitted up quite easily to your Weber. I'd consider it a worthwhile upgrade, but you can do the job with your foot.
I wouldn't mind finding something like this, but I wouldn't even know where to begin looking or how to go about rigging it up. any addition info would be greatly appreciated.
Your Weber is the two barrel downdraft unit right? That was oem on many cars back in the 70's and 80's. If you go to a junkyard that has older cars of this era in it and you pop open the hoods, you will see carburetors that look just like yours there looking at you.
If you look at the linkages on them you will see some have a dashpot connected to nothing. That is to keep the engine from stalling when you let go of the throttle. That's not the piece you're looking for.
But you will also see either an electric solenoid connected to the throttle linkage, or a little vacuum can connected to the intake manifold with electrical wires, these are idle control units. Find one with a linkage that looks like yours, or something like yours, and you can combine parts to make it work on your truck.
