nice job

Ok this is driving me nuts! For reference again it is a 22RE with a rebuilt head, EB 268 cam. Block was rebuilt, cylinders .040" over, new .040 pistons/rings. Crank .010 under, new bearings all around. Looks like I'm running on 3 cylinders. When I pull wires off 2, 3, and 4 the motor stumbles. Nothing changes when I pull 1, and although it starts up and I can drive it there is no power.

I need ideas guys, this is what I've done so far:

+ Compression test - 140, 140, 140, 134
+ New plugs, tried 2 new sets of wires, new cap/rotor.
+ Tried 2 different distributors
+ Set initial timing according to the FSM, 5 BTDC, rotor at 11 o'clock.
+ Verified spark coming out of all the wires
+ When I pull the #1 plug it comes out wet while the others are dry and have obviously been firing.

Please share any and all ideas you have, this is frustrating the ***** out of me. I need to get a set of Toyota wires, the Advance Auto Parts crap keep coming apart leaving the clip on the end of the plugs even when I use a wire boot pliers.

Also, I got new NGK plugs, but realized they don't match the ones listed in the book. All but #1 seems to be working fine, and I even swapped #1 and #2 and the plugs seem to be working. I don't know if I'm just not getting the timing right or what. But timing wouldn't make one cylinder not fire would it?

Are you SURE that when you stab the distributor that the ENGINE is at 0 TDC? I take it you're also jumpering the test plug to set the timing, yes?

The FSM says for the 22RE it should be at 5 BTDC... That's where I've been setting it.

When I tried jumpering it to further set timing, It was way advanced and I had to rotate the distributor all the way clockwise to get it down to about 8 deg but couldn't get to 5.

This is the first time I've ever had to mess with timing so I'm still learning obviously.

Question: Does the engine have to be off when you jump the diagnostic pins? Or can you do it while it is running?

If yer only gettin to 8 degrees all the way clockwise, yer off a tooth on the dist. remember, it rotates when you put it back in the head, should be pointing right at the #1 plug tower on the cap. I jumper it when its running, you can hear the idle drop when you do it.

rebuilt my RE last summer, that first time you fire it up its even better than bein a kid on xmas morning. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

good luck!

Throttle pos. sensor is out of wack. Adjust according to specs.

That's the other possibility; jumpering the plug takes the TPS out of the loop while you set the timing; the idle speed should be set up as well; THEN you adjust the TPS.

TPS- root of all evil, 22RE or 3.0

Actually if the TPS IDL-E2 setting is off (i.e. > 2300 ohms with throttle closed) then the timing jumper will have no effect on the base timing:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml#Troubleshooting

In that case, 12 BTDC is close to factory timing (i.e. 12 BTDC w/o jumper = 5 BTDC w/ jumper).

Interesting! Always cool to learn a little more. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Thanks again for the tips guys.

I tried setting the TPS during reassembly of the throttle body but I can't be sure it is correct. I did use a meter on the pins as described in the FSM, and moved the TPS until the values *changed... am I doing that right or can someone explain the procedure better?

(From the FSM)

3. CHECK THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
(See step 2 on page EG1û197)
(c) Gradually turn the sensor clockwise until the ohmû
meter *deflects, and secure the sensor with the two
screws.
(d) Using a thickness gauge, recheck the continuity beû
tween terminals IDL and E2.
(b) Insert a thickness gauge (0.70 mm or 0.0276 in.)
between the throttle stop screw and lever, and conû
nect the ohmmeter to terminals IDL and E2.
4. IF NECESSARY, ADJUST THROTTLE POSITION
SENSOR
(a) Loosen the two screws of the sensor.

Clearance between
lever and stop screw Continuity (IDLE û E2)

0.57 mm (0.0224 in.) Continuity
0.85 mm (0.0335 in.) No continuity