Post deleted by andykrow

Post deleted by andykrow

Well, I was able to find continuity between all the TPS connector plugs and a corresponding plug at the ECU, and all the measurements read nearly the same at the computer. IDL-E2 is 15 ohms, E2-VTA is 610 ohms

Seems like it's safe to say the TPS is not an issue here.

Noticed while I was down there the ECU says "22R" on it. Should it say 22RE??

Nope.

And on the check connector, your actual idel speed may not visibly change, but for sure the base timing should change. If set properly, it should be ~12 BTDC without the jumper and once you plug in the jumper, the timing should drop to 5 BTDC. Easy to see the change with the timing light running and pop the jumper in and out (I have a switch on my jumper, so easy to flip it on and off and watch the timing mark move).

Well right now it won't even idle so getting it to do that is my next step....

Any ideas on why setting the valves correctly would make it not idle???

Just fixed that problem on my truck. I eliminated all the EGR so that I only have the 4 vacuume lines I need. The EGR valve that runs from the back of the intake to the head was bad on mine, blown diaphram, which also fubared the VSV's that are located on the top of the valve cover.

I noticed that you never mentioned any thing about the VFM on your air box, i would cheak that for resistances and make sure that the sweep doesn't have any drop out points in it, im pretty sure the numbers are on 4crawlers page some were. If not i will look for the numbers, i have them some were but that was two houses ago so i cant guarantee much.

I would check for bad head gasket too. I would do a comp test, also take the radiator cap off and leave it off while you crank the engine and if the water does any thing more than barely ooze out while the engine is cool than your are looking more at a bad head gasket.

That would also eliminate a few big issues if they pass.

When I applied direct vacuum to the EGR the engine wanted to die. This was, of course, before I adjusted the valves and the engine would hold an idle.

As for the coolant, that may be the key. When I was burping the system I noticed if I had the rad cap off and revved the engine the coolant level would raise in the radiator. I thought this was due to the water pump running quicker and the thermostat being closed still. Do I have a blown HG?? Figured I would see exhaust bubbling through if that was the case...

Compression test seems to be next.

With truck off - take off rad cap, then start truck - if it geisers and goes all over - bad head gasket.

If not, then maybe safe (also look for the signs oil in water - water in oil)

I'll try the cranking thing, but I don't have much faith. When I had the truck running with the cap off and revved it the coolant came up enough to pour out of the radiator a fair amount. No signs of oil in water or vice versa, but I often smell coolant very slightly when popping the hood.

On another note, is it possible to change the HG while the engine is in the truck?