Funny, most of the guys at the shop think sticking with leaves is the best way. They comment on it being tested, reliable and simplest.
I agree with the second sentence, but not with the first sentence if your goal is to keep it low. With leaves under the frame, and room to move the suspension (especially to clear the steering linkage across the springs), it is tough to do a solid-axle swap and keep it low. Links can be lower, since there is less horizontal linkage in front of the axle than in a leaf-sprung setup, where the leaves ARE the links.
FWIW, there are some good pictures on this forum, or linked, but the sheer size of the aggregate whole can make it a challenge to find them. I searched up a few threads for you:
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...&Number=441164&Forum=c15http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...&Number=240686&Forum=c15I also have some simple pictures online from the late 90's when I did UZI's front axle swap:
http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/randii/gifs/uzi_susp/ ...of note is the flat springs, dropped spring hangar, and below the frame shackle. I've since managed to decrease lift with shorter shackles, but if I were to do it again, I would use my existing flattish springs, but go through the frame in the rear Toyota-style, and use less drop in the front hangar. In doing so, I'd be forced to run shorter shocks or put towers through the fenders, I'd have to rework my steering to keep it out of the leaves and somehow keep it off the oil pan, and I'd have to cut and turn the knuckles to get back to reasonable caster angles... there ain't no such thing as a free lunch (TANSTAAFL).
Hope that helps,
Randii
