Okay, I have put in a new TPS. Still the same problem.

I metered all the injectors, they all read about 2.5 ohms except for the CSI which reads about 3.5. I wasn't worried about the CSI, because the problem is consistent no matter what the engine temp. I have listened to each injector. They all sound the same, and I can't hear any of them shutting off when it stutters. They all slow down the rate at which they fire during the stutter, but I figure that is because the revs are dropping. The only thing that I haven't done on the injectors is pull them and check if I can see them firing. However, the injectors definitely sound like they are firing, and I would think that if an injector is physically clogged the problem would not be so intermittent. Am I wrong in this assumption?

I decided to start metering everything again, while I was at it. The coil and the distributor pickup coil both meter right at the high limit for acceptable impedance, but are still barely within spec. Could the combination of these two reading so high be giving me too much resistance?

I just don't know what else to try right now.

So your engine ran fine at first?



What plugs and wires are you using . Some plugs and aftermarket wires like AC and autolite won't handle the voltages .

If your satisfied with the equipment you've installed, and checked the wiring/resistances to the injectors and all of the electrically actuated valves , then I think I would swap another ECU from a known good running vehicle and see if that changes anything

Random problems like this require a good mechanic with a lab scope.Even autoxray isnt a bad option,but you need to catch the glitch while its happening and interpret the data.OK,I have to throw a guess in too.Did this happen before the engine work?Take kick panel off and put pressure on the ecm while its running{just squeeze the case a little},see if anything happens.

is the stutter random or does it follow a pattern when the rpms are at a constant speed, ie idle. Honestly it sounds like a vacume leak in the egr VSV's on top of the valve cover, or the VAF has dead spots in the resister strip. 4crawler has a write up on how to cheak the VAF. Other thing is you could have gotten a o-ring from the top of the injector croked and/or pinched. After that cheak the vaccume advance on your distributor .Put a timing light on and watch what the timing does when it hits the stutter. Do it at idle, hold the throttle up at constant RPM in a few diffrent RPM ranges, and check when you rev up fast and than drop to idle. With out the diag. port shorted the idle should be 5, and timing advance should be around 12-14 when you rev up i think, FSM should have that spec. Also see what happens when you pull the vaccume advance line off.

x2 on swaping in a good ECU.

Your ECU may be dry but it may not be healthy.

HAve you pulled the computer error codes?