I get brushes from the dealer, they are considered expensive. But I consider if $20 of brushes, a new front bearing and a few hours to go through it makes it last, that works for me.

To get more power from it requires rewinding it. I have an electric motor rebuilder that can do it, He rewinds armatures all week long. Some starter and alternator shops my still know how to rewind. Most just cleanup a core and send it out.
I have not had it done I have not rewound an armature since the slot car days.

I did just mounted a 110 amp unit from a DOHC G72 onto my SR engine in place of the 90 amp.
If you have a 75 amp or less the 90 amp is the same case size. There are two different mid size housings, 3 bolt or 4 bolt. You can swap the front case to adapt an alternator to different engines.

I had mine rewound to HO status - supposedly 160A, but I haven't bench tested it to check. All I know is that the Concorde AGM battery which has an enormous charge acceptance rate is charged before you know what's happened - and the alternator gets mighty hot for a bit - lots of current going through that small case. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Here's a rewinder that claims 150A - but it's pricey at $245 - more than twice what I paid...... and most of these rewinders won't give much of a warranty on an HO conversion due to the heat generated - which is hard on the works:

Mr. Alternator

With a name like that, you know it's high quality from an expert! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Cool <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> Good info Frank. Thx <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Cheater!

I wasnt trying to be a smart <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> but I spent a couple hours trouble shooting an alternator that my freind had "professionally" installed one time. It would work like a charm untill he got on the freeway and then it woiuld act funny sometimes work sometimes not. We figured he must have gotten a bad reman. Finnally figured out that the belt was not tight enough and the pully would slip under load keeping the alt from maintaining proper RPM's. I felt like an <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> that it took us so long to figure out, but at least we did. He shoulda got his money back from the installer. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Now if I think back to the beginning of this thread, I have heard of some interesting but mystifying healing going on down that way. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
Even in the hills up here we do not hear of these acts. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

It's our Magic Water <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Now, we have mountain spring water but are told not to drink it. Could it be why we do not have these powers, since our puritan background keeps us from drinking this water. May be there is something they have been hiding from us that you guys have discovered.

giardia...

It ain't the water. It's our natural superiority in all things important.

A new observation. The alternator charges mucho better when the engine is cold, all the way up to 16v pegged on the gauge, unless you add a/c fan loads and condensor fan loads. As soon as it gets hot (and it's been HOT here), it reverts ot a max charge voltage of about 12.5 without loads and 12, slowly falling, with load. Must be above 2500rpms at idle to keep from discharging.

I think a diode is kaput (when it warms up), or the regulator goes on strike once it's little 'lectrons get too hot.

When the engine is cold usually coincides with the alternator also being cold - and the hotter the alternator gets, the lower the output.... same is true for the wiring. You really need to check the connections and take some readings with the multi-meter. Yes, the regulator and/or diode/triode rectifier pack could break down or degrade with heat.

Charlie's suggestion of brushes is also a good one.

Frank